>brakes starting to squeak. >wrench-let

>brakes starting to squeak
>wrench-let
800-1k down the drain soon, frick. How do I find a mechanic that'll let me bring my own brakes/pads in, I've yet to find one. I got a quote from NTB for like 850ish and 1.2k with new calipers (which I probably don't need).

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  1. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    >800-1k down the drain
    > 850ish and 1.2k with new calipers

    How? Pads are about $25 and rotors are $60 for a set on my vehicle at rock auto, job should take and hour or two at the most.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      this and

      find a performance shop
      find a gas station shop
      find some beaner shop
      what car, model?
      are you lacking tools, experience, or both to do your own brakes?

      this

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      find a performance shop
      find a gas station shop
      find some beaner shop
      what car, model?
      are you lacking tools, experience, or both to do your own brakes?

      boomers are dying off. New mechanics are charging an arm/leg. Guy i work with got charged $950 for new brakes/rotors on all four wheels.

      https://i.imgur.com/JvPtTFC.gif

      >brakes starting to squeak
      >wrench-let
      800-1k down the drain soon, frick. How do I find a mechanic that'll let me bring my own brakes/pads in, I've yet to find one. I got a quote from NTB for like 850ish and 1.2k with new calipers (which I probably don't need).

      Just watch a few youtube videos. Its not that hard. Getting the tire off is like 60% of the job.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        >Getting the tire off is like 60% of the job.
        Depends if he lives in a salt state, then 60% of the job is rust.

  2. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    find a performance shop
    find a gas station shop
    find some beaner shop
    what car, model?
    are you lacking tools, experience, or both to do your own brakes?

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      >are you lacking tools, experience, or both to do your own brakes?
      both.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        perfect time to buy some tools, and learn it yourself. got a space to work on your car?

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        Don't know what car you have, but all of the brake parts and buying the bare necessary tools to do the job should be under $200.

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          in what century? a full set of QUALITY brake parts is well over $1000

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            >a full set of QUALITY brake parts is well over $1000
            lol for what car??
            until you're getting into big brembos and carbon ceramics, you should be able to source pads and rotors for any car under $600. on my car a full set is under $200

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            >in what century?

            The year of our Lord 2024, since the OP didn't specify what vehicle and I'm assuming he's not driving a Bugatti , I used my truck for example, which is a Toyota Tacoma.

            $70 brake rotor set
            $28 brake pads
            $39 Harbor freight floor jack
            $40 jack stands
            $34 1/2 drive set
            $6 c-clamp

            Total of $217 to change out my front brakes if I have nothing to start with. Since I have drum brakes on the rear, I didn't include them since they wear very slowly compared to the front. If you want to include the rear though, that's an extra $28 for the brake shoes, bringing the total to $245

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            Seriously this.
            Post car and area code OP.
            We'll link you exactly what parts and tools you need as well as where to purchase from and even find a nice step by step video to follow.

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            honda crosstour (4wd) in northern virginia (hence the high prices)

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            >honda crosstour

            Impossible. The Crosstour is the greatest vehicle ever made and requires no maintenance.

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            Dude.
            You can do rotors and pads for a hundred bucks.
            Calipers are only about $60 each (you don't need calipers).
            It's a piss easy job- you'll spend more time unpacking parts and tools and getting the tires off than actually changing out the pads and rotors.

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            2012 rover, 48226

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            lmao front and rear centric coated rotors and power stop z26 pads on rockauto were $240 shipped for my miata

  3. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    That seems expensive even for a shop. What is it all 4 corners? Also brakes are a great first timers job. 4 bolts each side, not a lot to frick up. I've seen wrenchlets get stuck because they can't remove the rotor. Just hit it harder you won't hurt anything.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      >I've seen wrenchlets get stuck because they can't remove the rotor.
      >Just hit it harder you won't hurt anything.
      There hasn't been a problem I couldn't fix on a corner by kicking it hard enough.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        Must be nice. If the rust is bad enough, the rim will almost weld itself to the hub flange.

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          Worst case just slowly lower the car onto the rotor until it pops

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            Believe me. That wont work. You need atleast a 6ft cheater bar to seperate them.
            Ive gotten the tires off with a sledge before but its probably not good for the tire. Like hitting a massive pothole. Worse if you miss and hit the rim

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        Guy you responded to in this post.

        Must be nice. If the rust is bad enough, the rim will almost weld itself to the hub flange.

        I guess I forgot to mention that actually to op, if the wheel is stuck sometimes it takes a big fricking hammer. If hitting the tire doesn't work, you can hit the wheel on the inside. Hitting the wheel will damage it cosmetically, so hit it from the inside.

        Worst case just slowly lower the car onto the rotor until it pops

        I've never tried this and I live in pa. Just hit it harder and more.

        Believe me. That wont work. You need atleast a 6ft cheater bar to seperate them.
        Ive gotten the tires off with a sledge before but its probably not good for the tire. Like hitting a massive pothole. Worse if you miss and hit the rim

        No, it really doesn't care. If you really believe that go drive around on that tire. Even avoid potholes. Your 5 pound or whatever sledge at idk, swinging speed isn't anywhere close to 4k pound hitting a pothole at 30. The tire will be fine. Might even enjoy the back scratch

  4. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    As mentioned many times: Good point to start wrenching.
    1/2" ratchet set, car jack, go.

  5. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    If you are gay you can still change your brake pads. Its super duper easy!

  6. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Dude just put them on. If you're iffy but willing to spend 800$ on some moron banging your brakes on, you can afford 600$ in tools and a Saturday afternoon figuring things out for yourself.

  7. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Step 1 stand on the pedal a coupe of times because grot builds up and brakes can get a bit squeaky.
    Step 2 get of your bum and see if you have meat on the pads and/or there are deep scores on the discs.
    No meat on the pads and no scores yet then by yourself some pads and a spanner or two.
    Scores on the disks that are OMG F* then get you to a stealer or a mate that wouldn't need this answer.
    This mesage brought to you by the school of shade tree machanics.

  8. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    I just drove home from work and they didn't squeal when I braked hard..hmmmm

  9. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    >squeak
    you dont need pads - tis normal - turn up the radio

  10. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    OP check how rusted your car is first. If you live in the rust belt and everything is rusted/seized it's barely worth the effort to do it yourself.

  11. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    op here again, I learned that the noise was probably some rust because it was dewey this morning and apparently that could make overnight rust that causes noise. This afternoon I didn't hear anything going home.
    Also I go to a church that had some people who work on cars and apparently one guy is open to working on cars in the parking lot when it's not in use. I may reach out to him to do the brakes with me and flush my troony fluid because that's never been done either. I'm open to learning and I appreciate the suggestions but I'm a street parking gay, apartment gay and wrenchlet and I'm terrified that I'd kill myself if I installed them myself (I needed help changing my air filters because I couldn't get a rusty screw off my air box...)

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      trapped debris can cause brake noise too, hit it with the wand at the car wash and it usually washes out. you can wrench on the street, that's what I have to do. brake pads and rotors are pretty simple to do. like other people said the biggest issue is rust seized fasteners, the best thing you can do is squirt penetrating oil the day beforehand, hit it with a torch then bang on it with a breaker bar. short fast movements are better than sustained torque which will bend the metal. if you deal with a lot of rusty bolts I highly recommend anti-rounding sockets, they're one of the best purchases I've made.

  12. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Since we're talking about brakes: I can't get one of these pins out. Any ideas ?
    A c-clamp like for popping bushings out ? Wd40?
    Yes, I'm whacking it with a punch and a hammer.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      never had one get stuck, do you have good pliers that you can attempt to turn it with? if you can turn it/spin it then it's just getting caught up on something, they aren't supposed to be a super tight fit, so corrosion shouldn't be holding it in there that tightly

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        Never had the pins stuck like that before... They usually pop right out and i live in the rust belt. You sure youre hitting it from the proper side? Its possible someone installed them backwards so you gotta go the other way this time.

        Well frick me. It looks like the right side. The pointy ends are pointing out. And I could get one out but then I couldn't get the bottom out so I just slapped it back in.
        Ugh. Maybe I should order replacements and just Dremel through it and pop it out..fricking stupid !

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      Never had the pins stuck like that before... They usually pop right out and i live in the rust belt. You sure youre hitting it from the proper side? Its possible someone installed them backwards so you gotta go the other way this time.

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