Do I need one of these to properly torque bolts and nuts or is there a cheaper way?

Do I need one of these to properly torque bolts and nuts or is there a cheaper way?

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  1. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    The other, non digital type. I hear it clicks.

  2. 1 month ago
    Bepis

    You don’t need a digital one, no. You can get click type guys that are accurate enough for $20, or try to come up with some system of free weights on the end of the handle and look like a fool.

    But most of the stuff some Youtuber says to torque properly isn’t a big deal if you’re not moronic. It’s worth getting a torque wrench for stuff with big sealing surfaces and bearings and shit though, not doing those properly could lead to a lot of work much sooner than expected.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      Just get the Harbor Fr888 one, or Wailmart has a simialr one for cheap too. You can usually get them <20 on sale. Harbor Fr8 does like 12-15$ sales for those shits (used to be $10)

      You can absolutely use one of the cheap $20 ones but do not leave it set/screwed down. It fricks the spring and throws them out of whack fast. Turn it zero before storing it.

      t. Worked in a calibration lab testing and repairing them

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        How much better are the digital ones, they all look and feel the same. I only use the clickers for tires.

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          Digital, click, beam or whatever is all juat preference really. The biggest factor I noticed in quality was brand. We had test data sheets for one individual torque wrench going back to the 90s and it was barely ever a few pounds out of tolerance, it was a snap-on.
          Where as I saw cheap ones come in brand new and be out by more than 20lbs. The other thing with the cheap ones was inconsistencies, like being within spec at the low end but as soon as you tried to apply heavier torque they would be way off.

          Are you against using them counter clockwise?
          [...]
          Yeah. Bend pointer to calibrate.
          [...]
          Any digital shit is adding complexity to the system. More to go wrong. The only good in it is dummy proofing.

          The vast majority of our customers asked us not to test counter clockwise, which we offered and could calibrate. It's fine imo.

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            Are you against using them counter clockwise?
            [...]
            Yeah. Bend pointer to calibrate.
            [...]
            Any digital shit is adding complexity to the system. More to go wrong. The only good in it is dummy proofing.

            The digital ones use a strain gauge so theoretically they should be more accurate and consistent being unable to go out of calibration which is why I asked. All the ones that aren't snap on are made by Eclatorq in Taiwan supposedly.

            I personally like to use my Quinn HF digital with a torque adapter to verify it's accurate (maybe both *could* be off but unlikely).

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            >The vast majority of our customers asked us not to test counter clockwise
            Cheap bastardos. If someone cares about calibration, I don’t see why they don’t care about turning left. There’s plenty of situations where it is required to reach around and torque the back form the front. I had to do the song and dance for so many government inspectors. “I know I’m turning counterclockwise but the nut is still going clockwise. Make those poor fricks feel stupid when I’m basically lying to them. Also, I figure it is healthy for the wrench to get some exercise.

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            >The biggest factor I noticed in quality was brand

            dang. what brands do you recommend, for a 20-150 ft lb torque wrench?

            and which one is good for 18 ft lbs, since many don't seem to be in that range?

            is it true that like 20% of the low or high end of the torque range is always innacurate, for many torque wrenches?

          • 1 month ago
            Beppu

            >18lbs

            Look for a 3/8”. It might be in inch-pounds, so 18ft-lbs x 12 inches = 216 in-lbs.

            I’m not calibration anon, but for mid range torque wrenches, a lot of people seem to like the Tektons. The Husky and Craftsman wrenches go on sale with the holidays at Home Depot and Lowe’s for $50-$60 ea and those are supposed to be solid plus easy lifetime warranty.

            For automotive, something like the Tekton 3/8” with 10-80lbs plus a 1/2” wrench good for 150-250lbs should cover all of your automotive bases. Anything smaller in in-lbs is going to be small shit that is just screwdriver tight and I’ve never run into automotive stuff like that. Don’t be using a big 1/2” that is 50-250 and crank is super low trying to get stuff around 40lbs. A lot of torque wrenches lose their accuracy at the very top and bottom of their ranges.

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            thanks anon. I'll look into those 2 wrenches

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        Are you against using them counter clockwise?

        https://i.imgur.com/3a5pClg.jpeg

        Just get one of these beam-style mechanical ones. They're super-cheap.

        Yeah. Bend pointer to calibrate.

        How much better are the digital ones, they all look and feel the same. I only use the clickers for tires.

        Any digital shit is adding complexity to the system. More to go wrong. The only good in it is dummy proofing.

        • 1 month ago
          Panda5

          >Yeah. Bend pointer to calibrate.
          I laughed. Yes, they warp and get out of spec. But they're more than good enough for people who just work on their own vehicles and cost like $20.

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            I wasn’t joking tho. They’re fine.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      Saw a youtuber once shill you should torque your oil pan nut to spec lmao what nerd is doing that

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        Its worth doing it once just for the muscle memory.

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          This.
          Its not about doing it properly, its about being around ballpark correct.

          But most of the time you are ballpark correct by doing body weight/leaning + the correct size of tool.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        I don't why not if you already have torque wrench lying around

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          He thinks torque wrenches are for nerds and being a nerd is not cool

      • 1 month ago
        Beppu

        I would do the oil pan, yes. If you’re talking about the drain plug, then

        Its worth doing it once just for the muscle memory.

        might be worthwhile. People like to crank drain plugs like crazy, and the specs probably say like 25lbs which is snug on a 3/8” wrench. Once you realize what that feels like, you will be ok without one.

        I did something similar with 100ft-lbs on lug nuts and the mid-torque impact wrench and breaker bar, so now I can slam wheels on real fast with the ugga dugga and not be going so tight that you can’t remove the things with a tire iron if you get a flat on the side of the road.

  3. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    I have never used a digital one, just get a normal one and return it to Autozone every 5 years for the best accuracy.

    pic related is minez
    they use to be made in taiwan, and my original taiwan one is still really accurate
    don't use drive adapters for them, get another sized one

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      What this anon said. Use 1/4" torque wrenches for 1/4" sockets, 3/8" for 3/8" and so on. Also the shorter your socket extension the better.

      https://i.imgur.com/JdSAuvA.jpeg

      i just wanted to flex, i just got the torque wrench i was always jealous of

      I've got a 3/8" Snap-on torque wrench. I like it a lot but I wish I could use it for lower torque applications too.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        1/2 is the best for loosen/tighten lug bolts/nuts, other more heavy duty. 1/2 sockets are also most commonly available.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        this one (atech2fr125) does 5-125ft-lb which does every important torque on engine+trans on both of my project cars. I have a cheap clicker for stuff like wheels, just needed one I could trust assembling overly built japanese 4cyls

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      >return it to Autozone every 5 years for the best accuracy.
      does autozone really calibrate torque wrenches?
      not sure if i would trust an autozone monkey to tell me what aisle battery cables are in let alone calibrate a precision tool

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        I think anon meant return it under warranty and get a new one.

  4. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Just get the Harbor Fr888 one, or Wailmart has a simialr one for cheap too. You can usually get them <20 on sale. Harbor Fr8 does like 12-15$ sales for those shits (used to be $10)

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      Yeah but they're not lifetime warranty. You can take your wrench back to Autzone every single time it loses accuracy, forever.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      Or you can just work at a tire shop for too long and take a brand new one on your way out that door forever.

  5. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    No, there is a formula to apply the correct torque by putting your hand at certain distances on it.

  6. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    For certain things they are completely necessary...like internal engine work...they are nice to have for other things. I usually use it on things that have gaskets and things that have high torque specs...gudntite is good for a lot of things but the peace of mind is worth it on others. I just replaced the ubolts and top plates on some leaf springs on a 1 ton truck and I used the torque wrench because the amount of force I had to put on them to hit the torque spec was way higher than I would have guesstimated. I have a tekton 3/8 10-80ftlbs clicky one it was like 50 bucks and a Harbor Freight Quinn digital 1/2 25-250ftlbs adapter that was $50...covers all my bases. The digital adapters work but they are not good for tight spaces, the clicky ones are more enjoyable to use.

  7. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Use a torque wrench on lugs is a complete waste of time. Just hit them with a four way lug wrench to get them about as tight as future you wants to deal with on the side of the road. If you snug them up there are not coming off.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      enjoy your warped brakes moron

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      You're so stupid it's unreal. Overtightening is just as dangerous as undertightening. Torque wrenches exist for a reason.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      You're so stupid it's unreal. Overtightening is just as dangerous as undertightening. Torque wrenches exist for a reason.

      kek, when i was 16 and dumb, i used to throw on the four way, hold the end, and jump up and down on it to tighten lug bolts. now I use a torque wrench.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      When i'm tightening lug nuts, i just do a one foot stand on the wrench. If it doesn't dip, then it's tight enough.

  8. 1 month ago
    Panda5

    Just get one of these beam-style mechanical ones. They're super-cheap.

  9. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    >get breaker bar
    >tighten
    >stand on bar to get it to tighten a bit more
    Never had any issues in 15+ years of owning and wrenching on cars whether it's a 4 lug econobox or an 8 lug truck

  10. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Calibrated elbows like a real mechanic.

  11. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    i just wanted to flex, i just got the torque wrench i was always jealous of

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      what happens if i use an impact gun on the tester? i must know

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        you break the tester

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      >2.8% error
      Pretty good for an electronic. Current standards are +- 4%. The standard was 2% back in the day, but LOL that's hard I guess.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        they still make them. but not cheap. you get what you pay for.

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          $20usd at Autozone.

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            >meter kilograms

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            A lot of metric old shit had forces listed in kgf instead of Newtons. I recall some Soviet manuals with those.

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            what's the accuracy for that? 2% or 4%?

            https://i.imgur.com/yvd8LXD.png

            >meter kilograms

            A lot of metric old shit had forces listed in kgf instead of Newtons. I recall some Soviet manuals with those.

            japs also used it too. service manuals would have it as the primary torque value, followed by ftlb then N m

  12. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    My millions of years evolutioned feelings>your chink tools

  13. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Depends on what you're torqing.
    Your oil drain plug, then no.
    Your cylinder head to your block, then yes.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      How do I know the right tightening torque for my cylinder head? lol

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        just eyeball it

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        25Nm per cylinder

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        consult the factory service manual

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          How do I get a factory service manual you smart ass? I have a 2016 skyactiv-d 1.5

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            bro you asked how to know the right tightening torque for your cylinder head. i do not know what is smart ass about looking what the factory service manual says because it is guaranteed to have that somewhere.
            how you're going to get it for your particular engine is another problem entirely, but i'd start with google first like most people trying to find it normally would.

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            Dude just search google for your year/make/model and buy it. The really cheap ones for about $30 suck.

            I bought my F150 manual from here:
            https://www.factory-manuals.com/shop/2013-ford-f150-repair-manual/

            Bought my 08 MDX manual from ebay:
            https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=2008+acura+mdx+service+manual&_sacat=0

            Bought my 2016 Challenger manual from here:
            https://servicemanualwarehouse.com/

  14. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Project Farm did a video comparing a bunch of torque wrenches.

  15. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    If you want to be cheap about it
    T(Nm) = g*m*d
    So if you need 50Nm and you have a 1m breaker bar
    50 = 9.81*m*1
    m = 5.09kg
    Get your breaker bar setup and hang a ~5kg weight on it 1m away from the pivot point. Wala

  16. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    you need a cordless impact to run them in quick and just get them good enough with a 4way lug wrench.

  17. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    >is there a cheaper way?
    common sense

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      also you mainly(only) need them if your doing engine rebuilds, common sense if enough for everything else

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      I mean pretty much this. I pretty much guess or estimate the torque on most fasteners and when I rarely double check them with a torque wrench but when I do I'm usually within a couple ft.lbs. I've done a lot of warehouse work so I know what specific weights feel like. It's not that hard to gauge what 20lbs feels like on a 12'' ratchet.

  18. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    click types are cheaper

    Once my car was at the shop for something quick and they were putting my front wheels back on, and I watched this chimp take a torque wrench (no idea what it was set at), put it on each lug nut, and yank on it so hard my car shook. I guess nobody every showed him how to use a torque wrench.
    lmao @ anyone who lets some moron dropout touch their car.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      Happened to me also
      Since then I either get my own clicker or borrow theirs, but I always tell them I'm going to tighten every lug nut with my own hands. Okay tire shops don't make a big deal out of it, bad shops you don't want to visit.

  19. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    >Do I need one of these to properly torque bolts and nuts or is there a cheaper way?
    Project Farm did test review some of these torque wrenches.

    Project Farm testing (1000 cycles)

    Tested 1000 CYCLES before/after:

  20. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    >Do I need one of these to properly torque bolts and nuts or is there a cheaper way?

    There is "good enough" versus overly expensive ones. Digital versions have a lot of versatility over the old style click type. The digital display can tell you the range as well as the self-calibrating nature of those tools.

  21. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    >Do I need one of these

    Times changed!!! You showed a Torque Wrench.

    Now, there is something called a Torque Adapter. This lets you turn any of your handle wrenches into a torque wrench. It is basically a small 1.5 inch square box with a display on it. You plug the female end onto the end of your wrench handle and then plug the socket onto the male extension of this torque adapter.

    Again, this is a nice way to do things if you have space to use such a thing.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      >It is basically a small 1.5 inch square box with a display on it.
      That won't fit in a lot of tight places okay for a normal ratchet

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      Yah that shouldn't be your first torque wrench. Probably not even your third. I bought one a few years ago on sale and never found a use for it.

  22. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Just keep cranking, it'll either hold or break off.

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