I want one of these but i'm scared of how old they are at this point.

I want one of these but i'm scared of how old they are at this point. anyone here own one has any experience with what typically goes wrong on them? they don't seem easy to fix given how crammed the engine is in there. are parts even readily available?

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  1. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Pussy wrenchlet ricelet stancelet

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      brainlet

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      Lol at your wheel gap, dicklet

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        post breasts

  2. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    At this point, consider EVERYTHING as with age, there no rhyme rule or reason as to when and if shit breaks.

    Nut up and accept every issue that comes with your way.

  3. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Are you talking about C4s in general or is there a specific year you want?

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      C4 in general.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        DO NOT buy a 1984 with the CrossFire engine. The CrossFire system is a pain to deal with on top of it being slow.

        The 1985-1991 years with the L98 Tuned Port-Injection small-block are fine, just slow. The L98 is very reliable but as far as transmissions go you’re stuck with an automatic 4-speed slushbox (700R4) or the stupid Doug Nash 4+3 (4-speed Borg-Warner Super T-10 with a 3-speed overdrive bolted to the end). These are both shit.

        From 1992-1995 you had the LT1. This engine is much better than the previous two, and its only critical flaw is the infamous OptiSpark system. The failures of these are overblown, but replacing them is a days work. In 1995, the C4 got a vented OptiSpark unit, and those are much more reliable. For transmissions you had the 700R4 until 1994, when it was replaced with the 4L60E. The manual option was a 6-speed ZF unit, and this is hands-down the best one to get. The ZF is awesome.

        In 1996, the C4 got the LT4 engine, which is an upgraded LT1 that makes 30 more HP. Other than that they’re the same. This was the last-gasp before the C5 came out.

        The ZR-1 ran from 1990-1995. This had the DOHC all-aluminum LT5, which is an incredible engine. Your only option was the ZF 6-speed. These are the fastest, most expensive, and most desirable C4 Corvettes. They had a horsepower bump in 1993.

        Common issues you’ll run into with these aside from the aforementioned OptiSpark on the LT1 and LT4 are issues that plague any old car. Seals, rubbers, gaskets, corrosion, interior plastics, seat upholstery, and shitty 90s GM electronics will be problems you will encounter with all of these.

        That should give you a general overview of the year-to-year differences. Check this website out if you want more details for cosmetic and interior changes.

        https://mirrockcorvette.com/c4-parts-guide/part-tables/

        I also didn’t even get into the special models like the Callaway Twin-Turbo.

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          And is misspoke, the 700R4 is great as far as reliability goes, better than the 4L60E for sure. It’s just that if you buy a Corvette with an automatic you’re gay.

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            You don't need to specify Corvette anon.

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            True 😉

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          I've got a 90 and it's legitimately the easiest car to wrench on I've had. Other than the engine mounts, I'm not sure how to do them.

          89 and up had the ZF6 6 speed transmission.

          I'm in the middle of replacing a failed clutch release bearing. It took me 4 hours to have everything apart.

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          Parts are available, check Mirrock Corvette. They're easy enough to work on, it's just a chevy. What typically goes wrong depends on what year you have. I recommend 89-91, 95-96. Don't get a 84. Don't get a manual before 89.

          Oh look this anon has you covered already

          And is misspoke, the 700R4 is great as far as reliability goes, better than the 4L60E for sure. It’s just that if you buy a Corvette with an automatic you’re gay.

          >if you buy a Corvette with an automatic you’re gay.
          TIL I suck wiener, who knew

          https://i.imgur.com/J5jhTXj.jpeg

          Stay away from the optispark years and you’re golden. They are super easy to work on and parts are widely available online. Headlight gears will need to be replaced most likely. They are fun as hell.
          Pic related 90’

          95 and 96 got vented opti, and there's 2 good options if you ever have to do the job.

          I daily this 89. Not much power but handles great thanks partly to stock 275 square lol. These cars are old and gm build quality so get a good one and you're fine, get a pile and it'll never be right. CHECK DOOR SEALS GET ONE GARAGE KEPT my shit leaks in the rain lol.

          • 1 month ago
            s10fag

            Can you get these seals or no?

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            It's about $400 to get all the seals for the car (roof, windows, hatch). All the Corvette parts sites sell them.

          • 1 month ago
            p

            have a nice day

  4. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    I DD an '85 for 6 years. It was a great car. Z51, handled like a slot car. I put a shift kit in the 700R4 and it was fine. Yea, the TPI was designed around the 305, the 350 is really choked by it, but damn, that low end! There's lots of mods out there to play with.

  5. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    >they don't seem easy to fix given how crammed the engine is in there.

    T.brainlet

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      C4 is super easy to work on. One that blew me away was how easy the fuel pump was. On an '85 Trans Am, I almost had to drop the rear end, and did drop the rea springs, because you have to drop the gas tank to get to the top where the inspection cover is. It's still on the top in the Vette, but all you do is remove the gas filler door, four bolts, remove the rubber boot and you're looking at the top of the tank. Took me 30 minutes to change out the pumps on a '91 ZR-1.

  6. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    [...]

    NTA but no one wants to be a pathetic wrenchlet who has to go go a frog website to ask for daddy's permission to get a car (let alone a simple as frick car like a C4)

  7. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    I have a 96 LT4 and I love it. It's very simple and eliable but there are a couple things that will eventually need addressed. The big one is the optispark. It's the distributor and it's right below the water pump so when the water pump starts to leak you'll have to replace both. If you're lucky, that has already been done. There were updates to the car every year so the later ones are a lot better than the earlier ones, but the earlier ones are significantly cheaper. Most people will want LT1 or LT4 engine so the best ones are 1992 - 1996.

  8. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Optispark is the common issue.

    If the car wasn't driven regularly (at least a couple times a summer) assume EVERY rubber piece will need replaced.

    If it was driven regularly and more or less kept up, still be mindful that it IS a 30-40 year old car and assume things WILL fail due to age. It's just what older cars do.

    Don't buy one as your *only* car just by virtue of being a 2 seater RWD car. They're pretty forgiving as a second car.

  9. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Skip C4 and just go for C5. I love C4 blocky styling but C5 is just so much better C4 is not worth money just for few sharper lines.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      This is probably the right answer for most buyers. I got the C4 because I like the 80s/90s styling and I like that it's smaller than later Corvettes, but I do have to put up with some things to drive such an old car. A C5 or C6 would be much better as a daily or for someone who doesn't do much of their own wrenching.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      Second this, I'm a big fan of the c4 styling but I didn't want a project so I ended up buying a single owner c5 from some boomer that probably never drove over the speed limit in his life. I've owned it for some time now and I haven't had to touch a thing. Car just works.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        You can do the same thing with a C4 corvette. I managed to get a meticulously cared for 96 by a boomer and it hasn't had any catastrophic problems. Just a couple of evap lines and a small seak in the 4l60E that was easily accessible under the car.

        Op just needs to test drive both if he is is the market for either generation. Otherwise, he should just find one owned by a boomer

  10. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Stay away from the optispark years and you’re golden. They are super easy to work on and parts are widely available online. Headlight gears will need to be replaced most likely. They are fun as hell.
    Pic related 90’

  11. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Cool cars
    Look cool
    Love the builds people make
    Stock they are absolutely dog shit
    Should be easy to work on

  12. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    The real problem are NLA parts and expensive transmission rebuilds. Price out a rebuild on a ZF 6 speed and it's eye watering.

  13. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    One bad thing about C4s is the very shitty Rubbermaid plastic interiors because maximum weight saving was a priority.

  14. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    not only should 84s be avoided b/c Crossfire but also they had a digital dashboard with a failure rate of 1 million

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      About those digital dashes. I heard from a boomer who worked at the AC/Delco factory that they had horrible handling procedures for the dashes so most of them got zapped from static electricity and were DOA.

  15. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    I'm picking up a 95 C4 6 speed tomorrow. Anyone know common or recommended upgrades?

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      It has the upgraded optispark already. It shouldn't need much except maybe having some old rubber parts or vacuum lines replaced. The only "mod" I did to mine was to put a better flowing air filter cover on. I swear I can tell the difference, especially in mid range. Other than that, just change fluids and put fresh brakes and tires on it and enjoy.

  16. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Normal maintenance mostly; Corvettes are usually owned by boomers who drive gently and don't redline them. It's not a Trans Am or Daytona we're talking about here.

  17. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    don't buy one with a fricked up windshield 🙂
    there is a seal for the windshield that nobody, not a fricking soul on earth, makes anymore. add on the fact that there's no new manufacturer for the windshield trim.
    all this adds up to is a leaky windshield and scuffed trim which can frick the whole look of your car.
    tldr if you're gonna, buy one with a good windshield, get that shit covered in the windshield protective film or whatever the frick they call it.

    p.s. I will PREACH the 85 as my favorite C4 year (lightest of TPI gen, no ugly 3rd brake light, cheaper on the market, etc), but if you're looking for ABS, airbags, et cetera, look into a 1990. still has the L98 and the 700r4, or the ZF if you really want it. might just be my bias, but I'll take working on an L98 before an LT. only downside to the 1990 was the revised interior for the airbag, seeing as they got rid of the beautiful 80's interior and LCD displays.

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