Is this shit safe for my car long term?

Is this shit safe for my car long term? I had to go down a mountain pass the other day and they advised everyone to go into low gear rather than use brakes. Went down fine, but it felt like my car was revving insane the entire time down, and eventually I smelt a pretty bad smell (altho it may have been the guy infront of me who was riding his brakes the entire time instead) as it went away quickly once down and on my own again.

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  1. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Should be fine unless its a 2 stroke or certain old automatics that weren't designed for engine braking. The engine is designed to rev.

  2. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    >eventually I smelt a pretty bad smell (altho it may have been the guy infront of me who was riding his brakes the entire time instead)
    This is almost certainly what you smelt
    Shifting into a lower gear is better than riding your brakes down a mountain

  3. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Your engine is revving higher, but engine braking is perfectly fine. All you're doing is using the compression of the engine/drivetrain drag to slow the car down instead of the brake pads. In fact, it'll help cool the engine down faster after the big climb before the downhill.

  4. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    way better than cooking your brakes, just don't clutch in and out constantly. pick a gear that provides enough braking and leave it there

  5. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    The engine will still spin the oil and water pumps as normal, it's kinda like operating the engine at higher RPM but without the added stress and heat of actually having ongoing combustion. It's fine and that's why you're advised to engine brake, it helps slow you down without putting any heat on the brakes.
    >pretty bad smell
    Did you blip the throttle to match the revs for faster switching or did you just slowly ride the clutch to the end of travel? The latter will give you a whiff of burning clutch and will stink to high heaven for a short while. And yeah, it could've also been a moron in front of you glassing his brakes.

  6. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    You put more strain on your engine and troony to save your (cheap) brakes. You done well friend 😉

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Frick off you non-driving fudge packer

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Sorry my israeli friend but, I thought I was providing correct advice? I am trying to have him spend more money, is that no what we want?

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          mountains is the key word there moron. unless you have pads designed for track days, they're going to overheat if your riding them down a mountain.

          • 1 week ago
            Anonymous

            I swear none of you frickers even drive
            I've gone up down and sideways on mountains in a POS 2007 Corolla and never had to worry about brakes or engine breaking

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      >you put more strain making the thing do the thing it's designed to do

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >strain making the thing do the thing it's designed to do
        braking, on the other hand...

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          hmm yes let's overheat our brakes first on this long steep downhill stretch what's the worst that could happen?

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Post bus pass

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        ask these guys instead

        hmm yes let's overheat our brakes first on this long steep downhill stretch what's the worst that could happen?

        mountains is the key word there moron. unless you have pads designed for track days, they're going to overheat if your riding them down a mountain.

        since they apparently can't drive up or down a hill without riding the shit out of their pads kek

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          >long, steep downhill
          >without riding the shit out of their pads
          above average bait i must say

          • 2 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            kek no wonder most mutts ride autos, this is the most insane shit I've read here. It's either you guys actually can't drive or the pads you use are of such low quality that this is actually a real concern

          • 2 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            >It's either you guys actually can't drive
            ironic considering most people have no idea what engine braking is. i'll keep doing that anyway, doesn't hurt the engine at all.

          • 2 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            It's European city dwellers who don't own cars. It's dumbfounding for someone who lives among the alps to tell you to ride your brake pads down a mountain pass lmao. The pads aren't even the only concern when you ride them so many things can fail if you overheat them. There's a reason signs are posted to tell you to engine brake.

          • 2 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            i think you are confusing what i'm saying, i'm not advocating to ride brakes down mountain passes.

            hmm yes let's overheat our brakes first on this long steep downhill stretch what's the worst that could happen?

            is sarcasm

          • 1 week ago
            Anonymous

            It's fricking asinine, I can't believe I share the roads with these people
            the mountain passes they're talking about are likely large interstates and the "low gear" is intended for semis
            I've gone down mountain passes and sketchy ass mountain roads and if you are damaging your brakes somehow by regularly driving down them you shouldn't be behind the wheel, I'm impressed they can even use this website

          • 1 week ago
            Anonymous

            Film yourself driving down Pikes Peak on brakes only without being told to pull off. We'll wait.

          • 1 week ago
            Anonymous

            I don't drive a decrepit 80s shitbox
            6.8 grade isnt shit for small vehicles
            it's a commonly traveled tourist route.
            You probably moved to Colorado from California

          • 1 week ago
            Anonymous

            Nice projection you keep trying there. Glad to know you're all talk and no show.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      >use brakes coming down from loveland pass
      >they fade and i crash into the mountain at 110mph
      ha ha good thing i used the cheap thing to slow me down instead of the other thing that's an unlimited source of braking power!

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        If your brakes fade from coming down loveland pass then your brakes were trashed to begin with. I've seen people come down pikes peak with their brakes nearly on fire and they made it just fine. They even do inspections there and the guy told me he once saw someone whose temps were over 800F, quick pull over to let them cool then he was good to continue without issue.

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          If the brakes are 800° then driving on dry grass or pulling over can start a brush fire and also the wheel bearings are going to need replacement sooner. Not to mention if theres something that requires you to stop, it will take longer. Its scary moronic some drivers are.

          • 2 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Wheel bearings, brake fluid, brake pads are all cheaper than a new troony. The only people who those "USE LOW GEAR" signs exist for are trucks and people who are towing something.

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          >pikes peak
          those are race brakes

          • 2 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Pikes peak is open to public year around. The races are just one small event

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          if it was a car i'd agree with you

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        you don't know how to drive btw and finally someone

        If your brakes fade from coming down loveland pass then your brakes were trashed to begin with. I've seen people come down pikes peak with their brakes nearly on fire and they made it just fine. They even do inspections there and the guy told me he once saw someone whose temps were over 800F, quick pull over to let them cool then he was good to continue without issue.

        with half a brain

  7. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    i’ve been engine braking my truck everywhere and it’s still going into gear/ shifting just fine. just make sure you’re smooth with the engine breaking and don’t buck it around too much. you’ll immediately know if you’re bucking your car around. that shit will wear out your synchros (whatever the frick that is)

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      >breaking
      braking*

  8. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    This is why hybrids are based, you can just let it ride the regen to slow you down and you're getting free energy while you do it.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Can eCVTs even really engine brake?

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        It's motor breaking. If the car has regen breaking you can do it.

  9. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Using high gear and brake is as stupid. You should feel what is proper to your car usually its littlebit brake and gear that does not allow the speed to excess.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      chat gpt post

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        No, it's an Indian post. ChatGPT isn't nearly that dumb.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Good morning sir

  10. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    It's not great for automatic transmissions and they don't get a lot of braking out of it anyway. Big trucks with automatics will have a device built in called a moroner that does sort of the same thing. Engine braking with a manual is essentially free braking, it doesn't put wear and heat into the brakes and it doesn't hurt the engine or transmission. If you're worried about your engine RPM, you can just shift up one gear and use more brake (or use more brake and slow down), but as long as you aren't redlined it shouldn't be a problem at all.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      >Big trucks with automatics will have a device built in called a moroner
      But enough about the driver

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        It's not great for automatic transmissions and they don't get a lot of braking out of it anyway. Big trucks with automatics will have a device built in called a moroner that does sort of the same thing. Engine braking with a manual is essentially free braking, it doesn't put wear and heat into the brakes and it doesn't hurt the engine or transmission. If you're worried about your engine RPM, you can just shift up one gear and use more brake (or use more brake and slow down), but as long as you aren't redlined it shouldn't be a problem at all.

        Some trucks used to have an exhaust throttle valve to maximize engine braking.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      you are wrong and your post is an ai hallucination.

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        I am correct and everything in my post is easily verifiable.

        What do you think is the difference between your engine revving high because of the wheels versus because of air and fuel?

        Redlining from overrun is more dangerous because you can go past the fuel cut RPM.

        >but as long as you aren't redlined it shouldn't be a problem at all.
        Redlining with engine braking is relatively fine as there's no fuel delivery/ignition occurring. The biggest threat to your engine from redlining is valve float. Valve float only tends to occur after hard acceleration, heat serves to reduce spring stiffness and the fuel being delivered serves to keep the valve open (petrol/diesel are none-compressible fluids). Cutting fuel reduces both of these, the main threat is from any residual heat in the system that has already reduced spring stiffness and any fuel that is already in the pipes waiting to pass. When engine breaking you're not generating heat, quite the opposite, any air being pulled through serves to cool the engine and there's no fuel delivery in process.

        Wear and tear is the other argument but you have to remember these components are designed to redline when the engine is igniting. No sane man redlines down a hill in to an engine brake.

        Now, if you have a bumfrick transmission that can't handle the load, that's another problem.

        Lots of things can go wrong in an engine operating at a higher speed than it was intended for. All sorts of lubrication issues, harmonic issues, etc. The Mazda BP engine for example has an issue where there's a specific RPM that eventually causes the throttle plate to fatigue and break off and get sucked into the engine. It's a problem for racers, they raise their rev limiter and then end up destroying their engine from sitting at 7300 RPM or whatever it is. For that matter, rotary engines don't even have a valvetrain and all sorts of bad things can't happen when you overrev them.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      >but as long as you aren't redlined it shouldn't be a problem at all.
      Redlining with engine braking is relatively fine as there's no fuel delivery/ignition occurring. The biggest threat to your engine from redlining is valve float. Valve float only tends to occur after hard acceleration, heat serves to reduce spring stiffness and the fuel being delivered serves to keep the valve open (petrol/diesel are none-compressible fluids). Cutting fuel reduces both of these, the main threat is from any residual heat in the system that has already reduced spring stiffness and any fuel that is already in the pipes waiting to pass. When engine breaking you're not generating heat, quite the opposite, any air being pulled through serves to cool the engine and there's no fuel delivery in process.

      Wear and tear is the other argument but you have to remember these components are designed to redline when the engine is igniting. No sane man redlines down a hill in to an engine brake.

      Now, if you have a bumfrick transmission that can't handle the load, that's another problem.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      If the car can't hold it easy i just brake hard near red line to bring the engine speed back down then the process of the engine revving back up from going downhill starts again while the brakes can cool a little.

  11. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    What do you think is the difference between your engine revving high because of the wheels versus because of air and fuel?

  12. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Do the no brake moroner signs also apply to high rev in low gear?

  13. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    It’s actually very good for the break in process during the first 600 miles of a new engine. Seats the seals properly to prevent oil burning off

  14. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    >engine braking is due to compression
    Diesels have higher compression than gasoline engines yet they have virtually no engine braking without having another device such as an exhaust brake or Jake brake available. In gasoline engines, braking is the result of pulling a vacuum against the closed throttle.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Diesels don't have a throttle they are wide open at all times.
      But, CRs do affect the engine's braking ability. CR is higher resistance and more work actuated on the air. Higher CR = more engine braking.

      It's not great for automatic transmissions and they don't get a lot of braking out of it anyway. Big trucks with automatics will have a device built in called a moroner that does sort of the same thing. Engine braking with a manual is essentially free braking, it doesn't put wear and heat into the brakes and it doesn't hurt the engine or transmission. If you're worried about your engine RPM, you can just shift up one gear and use more brake (or use more brake and slow down), but as long as you aren't redlined it shouldn't be a problem at all.

      This ain't 1992 with your grandma's AOD tercel.
      Modern autos specifically have an engine fuel cutoff decel with torque clutch applied mode (engjne braking the same as a stick)

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        What transmission locks the torque converter in overrun?

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          zf8

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Pretty much all of them that have a DFCO profile will autoshift down into the next gear clutch locked with foot-of-the-gas operation.

          I know you mean "manually selecting a gear for high rpm downhills" you can confirm this easily with an obd reader and watching your transmission speed and TCC sensors.
          The TCC will lock any time slip speed is within the acceptable lockup range which is generally 50-100RPM of the ideal input>output locking target, RPM doesn't matter, if RPM is maintained without throttle use (such as coasting downhill with speed generally staying steady) the TCC can lock.

          So if you're keeping speed constant, even with the brakes, in a lower gear yes the clutch will lock.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      I drive a diesel and the engine braking feels no different than a gasoline engine. Explain yourself

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Go drive a real diesel in an 18 wheeler without the Jake or exhaust brake active instead of whatever automotive shitbox you've got that uses the variable vane turbo as an exhaust brake and let us know how quickly that slows down on compression by itself.

  15. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    If you stay within the rev range and don't drop clutch there's just normal wear

  16. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Engine braking makes no sense. Instead of putting the wear on a cheap replaceable brake pad, you're instead putting wear on the most expensive and irreplaceable part of your vehicle. Big brain moment

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      If you're going down a mountain and you burn your brakes out your entire car is at risk, along with someone else.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Please explain, in detail, how running the car at a slightly higher than cruising RPM is "wearing it out". You can't and won't, because you are wrong.

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Can't exactly engine brake at "slightly higher than cruising rpm" innit? But hey, at least you saved your brakes from 2 seconds of a marginal amount of friction

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          >2 seconds of a marginal amount of friction
          You may not understand it but you have to trust us, the world is not flat. There are these huge things called mountains that feature inclinations that go on for miles.

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          >Can't exactly engine brake at "slightly higher than cruising rpm" innit?
          On the street that's how 99% of engine braking is done. You're cruising and just use zero throttle to slow down when you only need to slow down a little or if you're going down a hill.
          It's not bad for the engine.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Unless you own a BMW, you'll spend more in brake maintenance than on engine repairs across the life of your vehicle.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Engine breaking isn't something you're meant to primarily rely on. It's a tool to reduce the car's momentum to make use of the actual break easier and less intensive. You're still meant to use your regular breaks primarily to break.
      Honestly if you don't really know what you're doing with a manual you're better off just clutching/going neutral when you break but you'd need to be aware that the car's harder to control when out of gear

  17. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Yup. Riding your brakes downhill too much can definitely cause brake fade and leave you with very few options to control your descent.

  18. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    You're meant to be sensible about engine breaking, you can't just go into 3rd at like 50mph to slow yourself down since that's send your RPM through the roof

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      3rd gear goes to 80 mph

  19. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    It's literally called engine breaking, you think it isn't going to brake your engine?

  20. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    this is what you're supposed to do.
    keep it below 3.5k ideally.

  21. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    My Toyota automatically engages engine braking on steep downhills even without downshifting if you let it coast.

  22. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    @27782007
    @27781993
    low tier bait

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      It's ok m8 no need to cry, you can respond to me

      >It's either you guys actually can't drive
      ironic considering most people have no idea what engine braking is. i'll keep doing that anyway, doesn't hurt the engine at all.

      Yea man I replace my pads with every hill, highly recommend everyone do the same! replace the fluids too while you at it! never know, it may have boiled

      It's European city dwellers who don't own cars. It's dumbfounding for someone who lives among the alps to tell you to ride your brake pads down a mountain pass lmao. The pads aren't even the only concern when you ride them so many things can fail if you overheat them. There's a reason signs are posted to tell you to engine brake.

      You don't know how to drive btw.

  23. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    If you don't see smoke there's no danger in using your normal brakes. Better than ruining your troony.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      >If you don't see smoke there's no danger in using your normal brakes. Better than ruining your troony.

  24. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    running an engine with low load is very bad for it.
    There's no point in engine braking at high RPMs.
    what's cheaper: an engine, transmission, & clutch, or set of brake pads?

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      The engine is not really running when engine braking as the injectors are off and not a single drop of fuel is burnt if the engine is rotating above a minimum RPM
      Engine braking doesn't put any more strain on the drivetrain than normal driving and I'll eat my words if you can prove it fricks anything up

      • 1 week ago
        Anonymous

        >running an engine with low load is very bad for it.
        no it isnt, running an engine at very low rpm is.

        >There's no point in engine braking at high RPMs.
        except the fact that it works better at high rpm due to physics

        [...]
        this
        people who think their car is just going to randomly explode are hilarious, they will say this stupid shit and then go drive 2 hours to see elton john lmao

        high rpm with low load makes the rod bolts way more stressed.
        that's why drag cars immediately put their cars in neutral after going through the lights.
        engine braking is dumb.
        brakes on pretty much any car in the past 30 years are more than capable of overwhelming the tires grip.

        pick:
        brake pad set:$100
        new engine:$7,000+
        new transmission:$3,000+

        • 1 week ago
          Anonymous

          >makes the rod bolts way more stressed.
          how do you figure?

          • 1 week ago
            Anonymous

            because the low load isn't pushing down on the rods like they would of you accelerate.
            instead the pistons are getting Pulled down at high piston speeds.
            lots of videos of drag guys blowing up engines on deceleration.

            You can softly engine brake, just make sure your engine is not spinning like 6,000 RPM when you do.
            I'm not talking about it cruising to a stop in 5th gear.
            I'm talking about accelerating to the top of a gear and letting off the gas.

          • 1 week ago
            Anonymous

            Dragsters blow up if you look at them wrong, can't compare to a normal shitbox engine

            No one will ever throw a rod from engine braking unless they're going fast and shift straight to 1st gear revving it to the moon

          • 1 week ago
            Anonymous

            >isn't pushing down on the rods like they would of you accelerate.
            Kinda like during the exhaust and intake strokes, right?

          • 1 week ago
            Anonymous

            >isn't pushing down on the rods like they would of you accelerate.
            He's also forgetting that the compression stroke is still there, in fact it's what makes engine braking work

          • 1 week ago
            Anonymous

            Well I guess the exhaust is a 'push' stroke as well.
            The "power" stroke still has 'push' pressure on it, since the pressure made by the compression stroke has to go somewhere.

          • 1 week ago
            Anonymous

            [...]
            high rpm with low load makes the rod bolts way more stressed.
            that's why drag cars immediately put their cars in neutral after going through the lights.
            engine braking is dumb.
            brakes on pretty much any car in the past 30 years are more than capable of overwhelming the tires grip.

            pick:
            brake pad set:$100
            new engine:$7,000+
            new transmission:$3,000+

            A lot of modern cars, especially EV/Hybrid with regenerative breaking, automatically downshift when slopes are detected while coasting. I think the engineers know what's proper for the engine if it's literally built fricking in to do it.

        • 1 week ago
          Anonymous

          has there ever been a case in automotive history of someone having to rebuild their engine because "engine braking ruined it"?

          • 1 week ago
            Anonymous

            Engine? Probably not
            troony? Probably, especially on a manual you can frick it up with improper use of the clutch

          • 1 week ago
            Anonymous

            the only way you could frick it up with engine braking is if you forced it into gear or kept riding the clutch

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      >running an engine with low load is very bad for it.
      no it isnt, running an engine at very low rpm is.

      >There's no point in engine braking at high RPMs.
      except the fact that it works better at high rpm due to physics

      The engine is not really running when engine braking as the injectors are off and not a single drop of fuel is burnt if the engine is rotating above a minimum RPM
      Engine braking doesn't put any more strain on the drivetrain than normal driving and I'll eat my words if you can prove it fricks anything up

      this
      people who think their car is just going to randomly explode are hilarious, they will say this stupid shit and then go drive 2 hours to see elton john lmao

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >then go drive 2 hours to see elton john lmao
        What exactly does this have to do with the thread or the issue here even with Elton John?

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          the point is you're doing no more stress damage to your engine, engine braking than you are accelerating to get on the highway, speeding because you're late for whatever and then ending up stuck in traffic idling or hours.
          was trying to think of a musician that is popular enough among normies to cause traffic problems and all of the good ones are dead, sue me you fat homosexual

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          because only boomer morons that listen to gays think engine braking is bad the car

  25. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    >half of DA says its fine and to do it
    >half of DA says just to use normal brakes
    >officials at the mountain roads tell you to do it
    who am I supposed to listen to here?

  26. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I go downhill in neutral for most of the way and rarely have to lightly apply the brakes. What type of mountains are you gays driving down that engine braking is required otherwise you're gonna frick your pads?

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      you're starving your transmission and engine of oil
      this, ironically, IS bad for your car; not to mention the fact that your car is harder to control in an emergency situation when you're out of gear

      • 1 week ago
        Anonymous

        gah silly me! I've been starving my transmission and engine of oil all this time I've tried to warm it up
        >emergency situation when you're out of gear
        you guys live in fear of everything it seems, just stay in bed cause something bad could happen

      • 1 week ago
        Anonymous

        The transmission and engine are oiled if you're in neutral. The problem happens from riding the clutch, not from leaving it in neutral.

    • 1 week ago
      Anonymous

      >going downhill in neutral
      wasting fuel to keep the engine idling and you're fricked if you need to accelerate suddenly to avoid crashing

      >engine braking
      you don't burn any fuel and have full control of your shitbox at all times

      You need to renew your bus pass

    • 1 week ago
      Anonymous

      >I go downhill in neutral for most of the way and rarely have to lightly apply the brakes.
      I get what you're saying but I question the why as I see no benefit. Pretty much every car from late 80's cuts off fuel when coasting above base rpms. When you're in neutral the car is burning fuel to keep the engine turning, gravity is free (minus the obvious expenditure to go uphill in the first place). If the plan is to 'not' engine brake, just roll in top gear and it will acheive the same effect with the benefit of saving fuel.

      If you're driving a true classic that lacks fuel cut-off feel free to ignore me.

    • 1 week ago
      Anonymous

      Arizona state route 260 between Heber-Overgaard and Star Valley
      Arizona state route 89 between Congress and Wilhoit
      The former Route 66 between Oatman, AZ and Kingman, AZ (highly recommended, my god was that fun)
      Interstate 70 east of Golden, CO
      Interstate 40 east of Albuquerque, NM
      Interstate 10 east of Indio, CA
      Just pick a road in a western state. We got big hills out here.
      >pic related, it's me in my old chev going down the Rim on SR260

    • 1 week ago
      Anonymous

      I camped on top of Mt Graham in arizona, drove my truck pulling a popup camper. On the way down my brakes got so hot they were barely working. Luckily was able to slow down to a stop cause the cliff is a sheer drop. Parked for an hour and poured water on the brakes. Was super sketchy.

  27. 1 week ago
    Anonymous

    [...]

    I go downhill in neutral for most of the way and rarely have to lightly apply the brakes. What type of mountains are you gays driving down that engine braking is required otherwise you're gonna frick your pads?

    I mean if you're able to just coast and lightly brake then you're not on mountain roads or your car is tiny and light. Actual mountain roads with low speed limits and lots of windy switchbacks require a lot more than just coast + light brake unless you're insane and go around the bends at high speed and put everyone at risk around you. It's even more of an issue for large SUVs, Trucks, and big semis where their weight accelerate them quickly on slopes with high grades.

  28. 1 week ago
    Panda5

    >ITT: Idiots claiming that using zero throttle damages engines and transmissions.
    What the frick?
    Who cares if brake pads are cheap? Engine braking isn't going to destroy your engine except the edge case where someone is going down a hill and end up overrevving somehow. These same people probably think that driving over 4k rpm is "hurting the engine."

  29. 1 week ago
    Anonymous

    Going in a low gear is for big ass trucks dummy, not your little shitbox

  30. 1 week ago
    Anonymous

    Half the posters ITT:

  31. 1 week ago
    Anonymous

    >going downhill
    >change up a gear and coast to save gas
    brakes are for losers with fat cars and flat ground

  32. 1 week ago
    Anonymous

    Not good for automatics. Manual diesels will have no issues

    • 1 week ago
      Anonymous

      >no throttle body to create resistance
      Trucks have an exhaust brake, what about cars?

  33. 1 week ago
    Anonymous

    no, you should put the car in neutral and apply brakes all the way down

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