replacing alternator

on a scale of 1-10, how hard is it?

Mike Stoklasa's Worst Fan Shirt $21.68

Thalidomide Vintage Ad Shirt $22.14

Mike Stoklasa's Worst Fan Shirt $21.68

  1. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    2, maybe 3 if it’s in a bad spot.

  2. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    on what car niglet

  3. 4 weeks ago
    Kevin Van Dam

    >posts a turbo
    What car and what engine? It varies greatly. The last one I did was a 2/10, 20min job with the shitty tool kit I had in my car. But if it’s buried under shit and you need to start pulling the radiator or intake manifold or remove motor mounts, you could be getting to 5-6/10 where 1/10 is an air filter and 10/10 is pulling an engine and opening it up.

    • 4 weeks ago
      Kevin Van Dam

      If you can see the alternator on the top, it will probably be pretty easy. Pic related is another easy mode one. I love doing accessory drive stuff on V6 SUVs that are sold with an optional V8 because there’s normally lots of room between the radiator and engine. Google a video for your car, you might want to think about one of those ~$20 serpentine belt wrench kits depending on how much clearance you have around the tensioner.

      If you haven’t done the belt in awhile, def worth doing it while you’re in there. Some transverse engines are annoying to get it lined up the first time but it’s a good job to do as preventative maintenance before it leaves you stranded.

    • 4 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      you know you can remove the lower splash guard and wow what do you know there is the alternator. if you have to replace the starter or ac pump you are fricked, moron

  4. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    >op asks a question that could have easily been answered in QTDDTOT
    >anons ask some questions to better answer OP's
    >op is never heard from again
    Why are there so many threads like this?

    • 4 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      1-10 depending on the car. You ever heard of a water cooled alternator?

      Normies man Normies. Most of them are so fricking stupid they think replacing any random part is the same on every car.

    • 4 weeks ago
      Kevin Van Dam

      OP’s mom’s boyfriend bought his car to the mechanic and paid $900 to have a new alternator put in.

      Alternator troubleshooting thread??
      Got myself a denso 210-0655 out of a 2009 Camry for free.
      Slapping it on to an older car.
      Not getting any voltage with engine running. (checked both battery and directly on the B post)
      I replaced the voltage regulator and the brushes.
      Alternator has 4-pins plus the b+ post
      Car has 3 leads (one being the +)
      I'm at a loss here.

      What the hell do those pins even measure? The main thing coming off the alternator should be the + off the main post and - off the body.

      Also are you sure the windings aren’t fricked on this “free” alternator you got?

      • 4 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >windings
        No, I'm not sure, I'll be sure to open her up next time though and have a look. if they are fricked though, is it something serviceable?

        It probably is not made for it. Is the connector even same

        No, the connector's not the same, but I don't see why it couldn't work

        • 4 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Alternators in theory are serviceable. Almost every town used to have a shop that could service them.

          But good luck finding a shop that's still in business doing that. That's why swapping cores is a thing now for most autoparts places.

          • 4 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Funny enough, I never considered calling an alternator shop, lel. there's only 1 in my area

            One of those pins might need excitement or a reference voltage to start charging.
            [...]
            In this pic it's the ignition pin that needs 12V switched to excite it, sense pin should be wired straight to battery to increase charging if voltage drops too much.
            Lamp is for the battery idiot light, fr is for the ECU to increase engine rpm at idle if the battery isn't being charged sufficiently

            >ignition pin
            I was curious what that meant, thanks for explaining that. I'll whip something up when I get home.
            After that I might just take other anon's advice and just swap cores

          • 4 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            One of those pins might need excitement or a reference voltage to start charging.
            [...]
            In this pic it's the ignition pin that needs 12V switched to excite it, sense pin should be wired straight to battery to increase charging if voltage drops too much.
            Lamp is for the battery idiot light, fr is for the ECU to increase engine rpm at idle if the battery isn't being charged sufficiently

            Okay, I tried it, and even switched around the wiring because I thought I might have plugged it in wrong ... Nothing
            I guess it's time for the swap .
            Also, the pulley gets really hot , is that just misalignment ?

          • 4 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Shouldnt get that hot. Likely a bad bearing that mightve cooked the brains in the alternator.
            Does it spin fine without the belt on it? Is there any play in the pulley?

          • 4 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            She runs pretty smooth (not as smooth as the last one I'll admit), and no play either.
            (The rebuild kit came with some replacement bearings, but I was too lazy to install them and didn't think they needed it)

        • 4 weeks ago
          Kevin Van Dam

          >is it something serviceable
          I mean the thing has to be re-wound, maybe a local shop can do it for a reasonable price, but at that point maybe it’s worth getting one on RockAuto that fits your application.

          Also as far as the thing being visible on the windings, maybe if there’s an obvious burnt spot. But I’m pretty sure most of the time motors and alternators die, it’s the transparent insulation going bad on the windings and you need an insulation tester or some other diagnostic tool to figure it out.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Most areas do have automotive electrical shops that rebuild alternators and starters, but most people including too many DIYers fail to use them.

          It's worth knowing how they work and dissecting dead cores then reassembling them for turn-in, but I don't usually bother repairing them. Rewound stators are how shops fix them since rewinding individual stators is not cost effective in most cases and even good shops don't always have rewinding machinery. Industrial electrical rewinders do but it's mostly only worth it for large electric motors.

          Easy. I replaced it then the belt was really tight but mighty power overcomes everything. I did not want to pay $60 for the proper tool. It lasted like 300 miles then the belt tensioner broke and the car had to be towed.

          Normally it's not a tool issue, it's a tard issue when belts are too tight.

  5. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Alternator troubleshooting thread??
    Got myself a denso 210-0655 out of a 2009 Camry for free.
    Slapping it on to an older car.
    Not getting any voltage with engine running. (checked both battery and directly on the B post)
    I replaced the voltage regulator and the brushes.
    Alternator has 4-pins plus the b+ post
    Car has 3 leads (one being the +)
    I'm at a loss here.

    • 4 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      It probably is not made for it. Is the connector even same

    • 4 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      One of those pins might need excitement or a reference voltage to start charging.

      https://i.imgur.com/oPH2u5E.png

      >windings
      No, I'm not sure, I'll be sure to open her up next time though and have a look. if they are fricked though, is it something serviceable?
      [...]
      No, the connector's not the same, but I don't see why it couldn't work

      In this pic it's the ignition pin that needs 12V switched to excite it, sense pin should be wired straight to battery to increase charging if voltage drops too much.
      Lamp is for the battery idiot light, fr is for the ECU to increase engine rpm at idle if the battery isn't being charged sufficiently

  6. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Easy. I replaced it then the belt was really tight but mighty power overcomes everything. I did not want to pay $60 for the proper tool. It lasted like 300 miles then the belt tensioner broke and the car had to be towed.

  7. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Not a lot of people know this but an alternator is actually an unnecessary emissions bs thing, I removed mine and the only real difference is that now the tail pipe makes a lot of white smoke

  8. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    bruh thats a turbo

    • 4 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      It's obviously a water pump.

    • 4 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      damn old meme, been a while

    • 4 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      that's my nickname!

  9. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Question for evgays.
    Do your appliances have alternators ?

    • 4 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      generators actually

      • 4 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Same fricking thing

        • 4 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Isn't it called an alternator in ICE cars to differentiate it from the older dynamos, which rectified their output with a mechanical commutator? Most modern "alternators" are basically belt-driven battery charger units, with built-in diode rectifiers, control circuits, etc.
          The equivalent in most Hybrids and EVs might use permanent magnets, water cooling and much heavier duty electronics to let it act as both a high-power generator (when braking) or a motor, but I suppose it's still a spinny electromagnetic thingy.

  10. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Alternator:

    >remove accessory belt by wrenching over the tensioner
    Including jacking the car up and taking off the wheel, this might take you 10 minutes.
    >remove alternator/alt and pulley
    another 10 minutes.
    Assuming you have no siezed/rust issues, and the parts are generally reachable. Add 5 minutes if you need to remove radiator hoses, another 5 minutes for any wiring or reservoirs.
    Double the total time if you don't have good impact drills or breaker bars.

    If your alt for some reason is in a weird spot/orientation, or for some even worse reason requires shenanigans like dropping the trans/removing turbos then lol my man have fun that's a half a day job at minimum.

  11. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Highly depends on the car, typically pretty easy, usually two bolts and a tensioner.

  12. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Did it last week to my E93. Fricking sucked and took a whole weekend because I needed to remove half of everything on the engine to get to it. But I managed to do it with the tools I can fit in my closet in my apartment complex, so take that as you will

  13. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Not hard, it's a plug and a few bolts. Most are accessible. You might want a buddy to hold the belt tensioner while you resnake it.

  14. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    That's a turbo

  15. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    1 on some cars, 10 on others, ya dummy

  16. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    For me, it's Mechman ^tm

    • 4 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      How much HP would this suck at full load?
      And how thick would the cable be to support that many Amps?

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        It adds 400HP, says right on it. Regular speaker cable should work fine. It it gets warm, run another pass of wire.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        It puts out a little under 8HP so slightly more than that with the incurred losses. You should probably be running 4/0 AWG cable with that kind of current.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Jesus, what're the applications for this?
          Jumping low riders?

          It adds 400HP, says right on it. Regular speaker cable should work fine. It it gets warm, run another pass of wire.

          Kek

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Car audio mostly. It would also be a good idea to run if you have a high electrical demand like if you're running winches, off road lights, fridges and shit, aux batteries, etc. 400amps isn't a whole lot these days. A lot of newer trucks run 250amp alternators with the option for a second one in the 3/4 and one ton trucks.

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Forgot RV's exist, lel. Makes me want to do this with my car... Just to shit post

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            based.
            Mechman has been around when I started getting into car audio... in 2012 or earlier.
            Admittedly my easy 1500 watt system was fine with the stock 125 or 150 amp setup and big 3 wiring kit.

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Your mom's vibrator needs that many amps

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *