What's the longest you've driven with a check engine light on?

What's the longest you've driven with a check engine light on?

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  1. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    at least 4 years, I kept waiting for the diode to just burn out but I don't think it ever did

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Are you guys moronic? How is this a car board and people like you exist

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        engine light doesn't mean shit 80% of the time, maybe you should drive more vehicles

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          >t. has never taken a car past 150k miles

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Wrong. Cope.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        depends on what the code actually is. I had an oil pressure sensor that keep fricking with me when it got cold because it was old and dirty. No reason to rush to change it out and spend the $50 on it, not with 200k on it at least. When I finally did change it out at 275k the light went away in the winter.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        my dad told me not to worry about it so I'm not

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >t. has never taken a car past 150k miles

        my CEL turns on like clockwork after a few times of driving short distances to complain about "muh catalyst converter efficiency is bad". The car went through emissions with perfect values way after that error started annoying me so who cares. I check the code every time and it's always that same code so I just delete it.

  2. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    About 10 miles to get home. I had it towed to a mechanic the next day. That was 3 years ago and it still hasn't come back, thankfully.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      how did you get around for the last 3 years without a car?

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        I have a Honda Super Cub.

  3. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I thought the engine light was on when everything is performing extra efficiently

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      No that's the magic genie bottle light

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Dont trust the genie he's a Black person. when I saw the light come on I was wishing I didn't have to go to work and the fricker blew my engine up.

  4. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Idk around 20k miles or so. Still going strong.

  5. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    like 30 miles because I'm not a woman and I actually maintain my vehicles.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      yet you dont know to check to code for if it's actually a problem

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        if the light is on, something isn't working as designed and there is a problem
        leaving the light on for minor problems means you'll have no warning if a more serious problem develops.
        we white males maintain our cars, women and Black folk leave their check engine lights on eternally

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          not always
          sensor detecting bad values -> there is a problem
          sensor bad -> there is no problem

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            a bad sensor is by definition a problem. cars don't just have extra sensors that are unnecessary.

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Who's going to tell him

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            if you're not going to fix your cats, then throw in a pic related for $5 so your check engine light isn't on all the time like a Black person or a woman.

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Like a week or however long it took to get the parts to rectify it. There's just no reason for it to be on when most of the time the issue causing it can be fixed easily. These things are definitely mandatory if you have faulty or deleted cats. Some vehicles run super rich when the downstream o2 sensor is putting out a wonky reading. Those spacers fix the fuel trim.

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Like a week or however long it took to get the parts to rectify it. There's just no reason for it to be on when most of the time the issue causing it can be fixed easily. These things are definitely mandatory if you have faulty or deleted cats. Some vehicles run super rich when the downstream o2 sensor is putting out a wonky reading. Those spacers fix the fuel trim.

            QRD on that stuff?
            t. wrenchlet with stolen cats

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            You’d put the defouler on the downstream o2 sensor bung on the cat. It moves the sensor out of the bulk of the exhaust flow, which will clear up a p0420 code. Typically used on a catless downpipe, or fast cat.

            It’s funny how gay and stupidity emissions testing is that doesn’t actually test the exhaust, just what the odbII scanner says. Til;dr you can use a $10 item to defeat homosexual emissions testing.

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Yep I went catless and installed a spacer. No CEL.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      I have an evap code because the charcoal gas fume huffer b***h box is clogged. The part is hundreds of dollars and you have to remove the rear suspension to get to it so I'm letting the light go for a while yeh.

  6. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    OP here, any savvy car people know how serious this is? The car is a Volkswagen Passat

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      if the car isn’t misfiring, misbehaving, or giving you fricked up mpg’s then leave i’d leave it alone until i gave enough fricks to fix it

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >then leave i’d it alone
        moron moment. i meant
        ***i’d leave it alone***

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Clear the code and if it comes back, replace the sensor. The bank one could frick the air/fuel ratio and more fuel in the exhaust equals fricked catalytic… So clear it, drive some on a highway/interstate for a bit. It comes back, replace it.

  7. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Eternal code p0420
    I just erase it right before inspection. Comes back on right after, kek

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      This, emissions code? Not my problem.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      This, emissions code? Not my problem.

      My only CELs have been EVAP small leak codes, clearing fixes the issue for months-years. Life is so easy

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      inspection where i live do not hook into your obd2 port if there is no light.

      so i just took apart the dash and took the diode out kek

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      P2 volvo?

  8. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Years.
    Had a check engine light on an old Chevy Lumina.
    Took it to 4-5 different mechanics and no one could figure out why.
    It ran fine the entire time. Didn't burn oil, no knocking, no weird sounds.

  9. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Yellow one does not mean anything

  10. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    3 years. Had a malfunctioning mass airflow sensor.

  11. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    About a year, turns out it was just a broken gas cap seal. I was pissed when I finally bought a scan tool and found out. I can't even imagine the amount of gas that evaporated out because of not wanting to spend 20 dollars on a scan tool and eventually 10 on a gas cap.

  12. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    >check engine light comes on
    >check the engine
    >"yep, still there"
    >continue driving

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous
  13. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Years. No state inspections, car runs fine, and every once in a while I pull the codes. It's always just an evap system leak and I couldn't give a frick. It hasn't been worth my time tracing down a mile of hoses and dropping the tank looking for a pinhole, and I'm not paying to have it smoke tested.

  14. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    >longest undiagnosed
    ~20 minutes.
    >longest left on
    Two days then it fricked off on its own. Intermittent O2 sensor error that goes away for 4-8 months when I clear it, this time I just checked the code and then didn't bother manually clearing it.

  15. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I have a Honda with an evap code that won't frick off even though I've tried everything in the book to fix it. Basically if the CEL isn't flashing I'm not going to give a frick.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Is it an odyssey? If it is my brother had the same issue, started after he had driven it through like a foot and a half of salt water and probably made it’s way into the evap system, it was fixed when we replaced the purge valve
      picrel

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >$230 for a part that's a shot in the dark
        Jesus, guess I'm buying used OEM.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Really? I don’t remember it costing that much

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      what year, which code? t. honda autist

      >$230 for a part that's a shot in the dark
      Jesus, guess I'm buying used OEM.

      >guess I'm buying used OEM.
      go to a pick'n'pull and grab one, evap shit is usually pretty cheap. just test the valve before buying it.
      >1. bring a multimeter, measure the resistance between the solenoid pins. coil resistance should be about 30 +-10 ohms. short, open or outside that range it's dead or defective.
      >2. bring a small 12v battery (8 AA's or something in a holder). actuate the valve, see if it moves and clicks when voltage is applied the right way. Black/Yellow wire is positive, Yellow/Blue or Red/Yellow wire is negative on the solenoid (provided your wires are the same as mine)
      >3. Disconnect the purge valve from everything and suck on it with your mouth from the hose side. Observe if it holds vacuum. Actuate the valve with the battery and check that it doesn't hold vacuum. Wash your mouth out so you don't get mouth cancer.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        01 CRV, cleared the code awhile ago but I'm pretty sure it was P1457.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          oh lol so your evap system is toast. test your solenoid with the 3 tests in

          what year, which code? t. honda autist

          [...]
          >guess I'm buying used OEM.
          go to a pick'n'pull and grab one, evap shit is usually pretty cheap. just test the valve before buying it.
          >1. bring a multimeter, measure the resistance between the solenoid pins. coil resistance should be about 30 +-10 ohms. short, open or outside that range it's dead or defective.
          >2. bring a small 12v battery (8 AA's or something in a holder). actuate the valve, see if it moves and clicks when voltage is applied the right way. Black/Yellow wire is positive, Yellow/Blue or Red/Yellow wire is negative on the solenoid (provided your wires are the same as mine)
          >3. Disconnect the purge valve from everything and suck on it with your mouth from the hose side. Observe if it holds vacuum. Actuate the valve with the battery and check that it doesn't hold vacuum. Wash your mouth out so you don't get mouth cancer.

          before parts cannoning it, if the solenoid is good your evap lines or fuel system is just rotted.

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            >fuel system is just rotted.
            Bro don't say that, I don't live in the rust belt but this thing was originally from Wisconsin. There's undercoating on it that might be hiding rust but as far as I'm aware the only rust on this thing is on the hood from untreated rock chips.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          For the record I've already replaced the gas cap, changed my exhaust from the headers down, had the mid pipe welded to the cat, replaced the O2 sensors and tried straight/angled defoulers on them. I can clear it and it will go away anywhere from a week to a month but something always triggers it whether it's hitting a pothole or going through a carwash (I'm not kidding).

  16. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I have a cat low efficiency code in my Rolla
    I just clear it every week
    MPG is the same.
    runs fine.
    can't get the Cat O2 sensor off, so I can't use a sensor defouler

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      lot of times you're dam near required to use a torch for 02s. once it breaks loose it'll spin out easy and you'll be tempted to do so by hand despite just watching it glow red.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        oh I can get that rear O2 sensor out
        but I'd destroy it in the process.
        & the plug is routed under the seats and I don't want to remove my seats to replace a sensor.

        300,000 Corolla can take one for the team until my next union contract.

  17. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Not long since you fail inspection in the UK for it. I take the bulbs out or just fix the problem if it's an easy fix.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      they don't do key on engine off tests? the bulbs supposed to come on for a few seconds to test that it works. make us do that here in a few counties in pa USA

  18. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    out of the 3 cars i own, the only one without a check engine light on the dash is the one without an engine in it

  19. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Like thousands of miles because it was just an evap leak ... sold the car before fixing it kek.

  20. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I had a piece of tape over mine for so long that it started to chemically react with the plastic and left a permanent outline.

  21. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I drove from Seattle, Washington to Gettysburg, Pennsylvania over the course of six months with half an exhaust and a blown spark plug for a Ford Escape V6. I was homeless, and am insane.

  22. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    2.5 years then I thought the bulb burnt out but it came back on last week.

  23. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    7 years, I bashed the clogged cat out of my rx8 so I had a permanent cel from it.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Do you like the rx8?

  24. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    48,000 miles because I live in a county with no smog check.

  25. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    8 months and counting.
    >it's just an O2 sensor code bro

  26. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Depends on the rig, my current one, not very far since I bought it new. My old wagon, it was more concerning when it turned off.

  27. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Probably 20k
    The cat was burnt out
    No I'm not replacing it

  28. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    10+ years.
    ECU is looking for O2 sensors (and cats) that no longer exist.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      How does it work without the sensors?

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >How does it work without the sensors?
        Just fine. The older Bosch systems just default into open loop, and it runs a touch fat. Considering it never sees highway, I've not seen any real change in mileage.

  29. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Probably 2-4k miles.
    >Intake manifold flaps stuck open/closed
    >Some other thermostat error I think
    I'm selling the car anyways

  30. 3 weeks ago
    Gears

    30min
    then it disappeared never to be seen again

  31. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I drive a BMW, the check engine light stays on
    BMW, Check engine light, and leaks oil should just be synonymous

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Only if you are a poor and only plan on driving the car into the ground, What a waste, yet another classic case of buying a used BMW with no idea what he's in for or no intention of repairs and maintenance. Instead, claim CEL and oil leaks are normal and can be ignored. BMW is pay to play, you won't be playing very long. You are the very reason used BMW gets a bad rap. Then you ditch it, now we have another basket case BMW out there. This is the cautionary tale regarding used BMW, buy used, you might be buying from this guys car.
      Only poors continue to drive their car with CEL light on, or simply doesn't care. Which is fine if its an old, high mileage FWD 4 cyl POS with zero market value. Camaro, Mustang, BMW and Corvette should not be treated this way, only means you cannot afford these type cars.

  32. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    like 5 years, i deleted catalytic converter so check engine is always on

  33. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Off and on for two years. First it was an O2 sensor which I fixed, now it's a knock sensor that I have but haven't replaced yet and now the manual gearbox is due for a rebuild.

  34. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    >clears it immediately with the Bluetooth dongle I keep in the car
    0 miles

  35. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    The light has been on since I bought my 04 Civic. 4 years and 50k in it's falling apart but the engine is still there. Rust will be what kills my shitbox

  36. 3 weeks ago
    Greased Geese

    my truck has had an oxygen sensor wire broken so it's been on for like 15 years.

  37. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I rolled once, and kept driving it for a couple years. It had an engine light for a while after until one day it just made a loud clunk while driving and it went away.

  38. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    >check engine light on, inspection due
    >Go to highly recommended mechanic
    >Quotes $1300 to fix
    >Pay him
    >Leave, check engine light comes back on almost immediately
    >He gets his buddy to give me an inspection sticker anyway
    >Next year, light still on
    >Go back to him and he wants $100 for the sticker
    >Frick it, pay and get the sticker
    >Next year, go back
    >He resumes to give me a sticker, says he wants $2000 and to leave the truck with him for a week and MAYBE he can figure it out
    >Tell him to go frick himself
    >Find out my friends dad is a mechanic, go to him
    >He says it's a solenoid problem
    >$600 and half a days work
    >Shitty mechanic dies shortly after
    >Piss on his grave

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      >Resumes
      Refuses

  39. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    7 years, but it doesnt technically count. when the light flashes, it turns off for a second and back on

    memes aside, ive changed the o2 sensor like 3 times, i cant get that b***h to read right

  40. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    About a year. It came on, scanned it during lunch and saw it was a code for the EGR Valve. Meh no rush, then fall/winter came it was too cold to deal with. Come spring I got my 2 year Emissions mailer, well shit, I had already bought the part months ago. So with 2 months to spare, I swapped it. plugged the battery back in. Started it and code was gone and all was good. Drove it to emissions and passed. The van will survive another 2 years.

  41. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    The bulb burned out but I had codes for bad o2 sensors for like 8 years and 100k miles.

  42. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    0. My car shuts itself down any time the light comes on and refuses to start unless I zero it.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Is it supposed to do that?

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        I don't know. It seems intentional given it will only cut engine power first, preserving steering and brakes. It will display big
        >ENGINE FAILURE
        with loud beeping and a huge triangle. It's pretty sensitive to anything, be it the airmass sensor or slightly loose connector

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      you zero what

  43. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Like 100k

  44. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Like a decade, the oxygen sensor broke. It didn't notice a differnet in fuel efficiency, no local scrapyard had one and ordering one was way too expensive for "no noticeable difference".
    It's Toyota Corolla 1995.

  45. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    >lights been on all winter
    >finally get it checked before i have to renew
    >cat converter issue
    >either have to pay $800 or sell the car
    im so fricked

  46. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    1 day, only because the knock sensor went out and the car would ping like a motherfricker at 5K.

  47. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    About 120k on my old dodge

  48. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    like 30 miles cuz it came on and put my car in a limp on my way home from a day trip, scared the piss out of me. had to have it towed back to dealership where i found out it was a bad sensor, go figure. had the software updated under warranty tho so it was $0.00 to have fixed

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      instead of getting towed, next time you could jump the ODB port and get the code on the dashboard and see if it's serious or not. I don't know about other cars, but on Hondas you jump pins 4+9 and the dashboard lights will flash the code: long flashes = 10, short flashes = 1. this saves you the time and money of going to a mechanic to scan for you. stealerships will charge like a hundred bucks to read codes when you can do it for free with a paperclip.

  49. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Like 20 years now. Ive checked on the engine a few times like I would anyways

  50. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Had a CEL in my GMT800 Tahoe for about 4 years and around 20,000 miles (it's a secondary vehicle) because of a knock sensor that I just took forever to get around to replacing.

  51. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Nobody is going to believe me
    >2015 transit connect
    >130k kms
    >Oil change every 5-7k km
    >Trans flush every 70
    >So my own brakes etc.
    I haven't had a single check engine light or issue despite it being an Ecoboost 1.6 with the automatic shit transmission... What am I in for.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      One of ours went through 3 trannies in less than a year.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        i keep hearing other tradies tell me how shit they are. I'm a pretty calm driver, let my engine and transmission reach temp before driving hard etc. SO far so good.

  52. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    >problem gone

  53. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    It's been going on randomly in my merc wagon for the better part of 3 years now. I just reset the code and wait for it to come on again. usually takes a month or so.

    Ive decoded it, I think it's an O2 sensor.

  54. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Never had it come up because I take care of my car.

  55. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    10 years and counting. My shitty 04 Vibe has had the CEL on since I got it and I've driven 110K miles on it with 0 issues.

  56. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    When it lit up I bought a chink OBD reader to figure out what the light's all about. It didn't connect to the ECU so now five years later the light's still there. Thanks, pooh.

  57. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    It burned out, then I replaced it with the seatbelt light

  58. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    >leaving the bulbs in for warning lights
    homosexual ass cherry

  59. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    >What's the longest you've driven with a check engine light on?
    Bought a used car that had the check engine light on when I got it, so about 10 years. Pretty sure its just the catalytic converters that are bad and tripping the check engine light and I don't care about that shit. Got the car at 155k miles now its at 188k miles. Not my problem.

  60. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    >What's the longest you've driven with a check engine light on?
    I'm finding out. I haven't changed spark plugs in 120k miles so every now and then the car will detect a misfire and CEL comes on.

    I'll get around to it.

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