a wrench that clicks when the bolt is tight enough?? you guys actually believe in this shit???
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practically, most things you do on a car can be tightened without a torque wrench without any issues. only things like internal powertrain actually need a torque wrench. i dont know why all the onions car youtubers all torque their oil drain plugs and lug nuts but it seems to really have taken off in the past few years. personally, i have 3 torque ratings for most things. snug, tight, and pretty fricking tight. most shit is either snug or tight.
Ive been torqueing to spec ever since I started getting shop manuals for my cars and motorcycles. I like feeling the click and I've snapped heads off little fasteners before since I can't seem to judge torque very well. Just torqued my handlebar clamps and hand control mounting bolts to spec after angling my handlebars up. I would have 100% over torqued them since the torque values were pretty low. But I never calibrate my torque wrenches so it probably doesn't make a difference.
This. I have no calibration in the arm and I have no clue how tight small bolts need to be. Frick I snapped an alternator bolt just trying to get it snug.
Also calibrating your torque wrenches is dumb easy anon. You should definitely do it.
>not torquing lug nuts
Based moron
If it's tight it's tight innit?
>Get so good at ratcheting lug nuts
>Go to use torque wrench
>'clic'
you overtightened, moron
Tighten all the way until it stiffens up then another quarter turn wrenchlet, there's some tips for you new gays
you overtightened, moron
You're a gay
I always use a torque wrench if clearance allows. If not, frick it, I use my brain.
option 2 won't work for 95% of anons here
i use anti seize on all my bolts and make up my own wet torque settings
30% less than dry torque is a good rule of thumb. forgot which honda car or bike owner's manual has it, but one particular model says to lube the spark plugs with anti seize, and on another no anti seize. the anti seize torque spec is exactly 30% less than the dry torque spec
+1
Cordless ugga duggas have torque settings built in!
this person is a wrenchlet who never had to work with gaskets
Your ratings however are not "repeatable" but in range close enough so far. I trained many aircraft and other techs and "feel" is too subjective to rely on UNTIL one gets sufficient practice (and some never get it). One example is amateur car mechs breaking their motorbike hardware by reliance on "feel".
Torque wrench calibration is far less critical than being consistent as the purpose of torquing covers, plates etc with multiple fasteners is to apply even loading. Free info about everything to do with the tools and adapters and calculations where required:
https://www.robins.af.mil/Portals/59/documents/technicalorders/32B14-3-1-101.pdf
friendly reminder any posts attempting to make safety seem uncool and tryhard may be attempts by antifa/commie/left leaning infiltration to get us killed
see: anti seatbelt threads
anti helmet threads in /n/
anti PPE threads in DA
muh trigger/muzzle safety is a new phenomenon threads in /k/
go have a safety stand up homosexual, men are working
>i dont know why all the onions car youtubers all torque their oil drain plugs
alloy sump plug threads strip really fricking easily, especially if they've been touched by some fast fit moron.
>practically, most things you do on a car can be tightened without a torque wrench without any issues.
Until you have to remove the bolt.
I only like to work on my car with basic hand tools. This fancy shit is off-putting.
Poorgay cope.
Do enough work and have enough responsibilities and you will get to the point where power tools become worth the $$$ so you’re not dicking around all day with ratchets and missing 10mm sockets.
+1
No I want more basic tools than ratchets
I wish I could have the minimum amount of tools
I don’t have an entire 3 day weekend cleared out to do an oil change, tire rotation, and swap an air filter.
That's fine. I'm not trying to make you be the same as me. Why are you arguing?
Poorgay cope
Also working on modern cars without a bunch of stupid ass tools becomes a huge waste of time. Nothing is built to be easy to service.
I don't want to drive a modern car
I feel ya. Don’t need too many tools to ride the bus.
That's literally an hour and a half of work what the frick are you talking about 3 day weekend how slow do you work?
>hour and a half oil change
I’ll use the other hour for my wife to make me lunch and give me a beej.
I’m done cracking lug nuts loose on the ground before lifting the car into the air.
You got some poorgay wheels and lug nuts if your using a quickerfrickerupper on something that takes me 2 minutes on all 4 wheels, probably the same amount it takes you to blow your load
>oil change, tire rotation, and swap an air filter
why do you need a three day weekend for this?
Purist anon who only uses the manual drill and Ford wrenches needs a 3 day weekend. Give me an hour and then I’ll be cooking dinner right after.
oh right, you were being sarcastic
So you weren't pretending to be moronic, you are moronic. something all trip gays share
Thank your local tripgays because they make it much easier for you to filter them
>t. moron at jiffy lube who strips your lug nuts round
He just has shitty iron lug nuts guaranteed and some shit wheels to match
>Based ugabunga Rigid enjoyer.
I ponied up the $150 or whatever for the big boy discontinued 1/2" + 4ah high output battery that HD was clearing out in the spring and it saved my balls doing some suspension work on 30 year old toyota.
>oil change
5 minutes
>tire rotation
5 minutes
>and swap an air filter.
30 seconds
>5 minute tire rotation with hand tools
You gonna be sweating after that one.
>5 minute oil change
The car will really appreciate those 3 quarts of new oil.
Also you’re too dumb to understand the conversation
I have no complaints with them so far, although the mid torque gets the job done 98% of the time on automotive stuff.
I have been shilling Ryobi a lot, especially since they dropped the 2 new 1/2” guns. Those sales are great and the DIYer can save a lot of money by getting the $60 brushed version of those tools that might only get used a few times a year and then the HP version of the stuff they will use every weekend.
Last time I got tires done was at a shop that previously way overtightened my lugs but got bought by a new company. I was pleased to see that the guy at the counter has a plastic file thing and he puts the work order, keys, and the correct torque stick in the bag when you drop off the car.
This
Absolutely based, nothing breaks, everything is torque'd to spec just as god intended
>get digital torque wrench
>connect to phone via bluetooth
>give it custom ringtone
>get new tire put on at shop
>watch tire slave tighten the lugs with an air impact
VRRRRRRRRRRRRTUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGA
>sweatingpepe.jpg
DUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGA
>lug nut is not turning
DUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGA
>stand there helplessly as the lug is basically welded on at this point
DUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGADUGGA
tyre shop 1
>ugga dugga the lug nuts
>go home asap thinking the nuts are now ridiculously overtightened
>relief when I'm able to crack them loose, albeit with much more difficulty than when they're torqued properly
>retorque all nuts
tyre shop 2
>say 'please tell me you don't just impact the nuts on
>'nope we use a torque wrench
>go home
>loosen a nut, comes off with same amount of force I use when they've been torqued to spec
>measure another nut's torque
>they actually torqued it to spec
Non-shit tire shops like mine use torque sticks for initial torque then a torque wrench. No comebacks, no problem.
I feel compelled to to use a torque wrench on most everything.
You cannot stop me.
I can also change my oil and rotate tires in less than 30min.
.t Aerospace gay who's also DA
i too autistically torque up every bolt that has a torque spec where possible as per the factory manual. although i need to make a note that the water pump bolt specs are way too high in the manual since one of them nearly stripped the threads in the timing case
whats a car that isnt so precise that missing the mark on torque wont make it fall apart
Depends how moronic you are. If you can ballpark stuff by feel +/-25% on cars, you will be ok. Main time to pay attention to it is with engine work, anything with a gasket and lots of bolts holding one part on, or shit riding on bearings, try to get the torque close and use a common sense routine when tightening them so you have the best chance of the replacement parts lasting as long as the originals. It’s not hard to mess up a valve or head gasket if you use crank one side down real tight and don’t follow some sort of torque sequence.
>try to torque rocker cover bolts at 8nm or whatever the frick it was
>slowly turn wrench, waiting for click
>suddenly feel no resistance without ever hearing a click
>realise i snapped the bolt
what the frick did i do wrong here
Old and/or shitty hardware and/or torque wrench.
Also remember that torque wrenches have shit accuracy at their upper and lower limits, so if you have a big 1/2” drive 200nm torque wrench and you’re trying to do little fasteners <10nm, you might be way off whatever the wrench is set at.
>if you have a big 1/2” drive 200nm torque wrench and you’re trying to do little fasteners <10nm
yeah that was exactly my situation kek
man i'm moronic
That coulda done it. The +/-4% ratings or whatever they give you are only for like 20% to 80% of the torque range.
Because
Trying to do spark plugs on some cars requires a bunch of different extensions and ratchets to get clean shots without having to take apart half a dozen different things.
>2 minutes for an oil change, 4 wheel tire rotation, and an air filter
Wew lad, send a vid to some NASCAR pit crew chiefs. You have a future!
That’s pretty autistic, but you do you. I shill at least 2 for the average weekend warrior, a 1/4” or 3/8” that will get you through the in-lb range, and then a 1/2” that’s good for the ft-lb range up to 150-200ft-lbs. Should cover the stuff you want a torque wrench for on DA jobs. Haven’t felt the need for a low in-lb screwdriver on any DA jobs.
>Haven’t felt the need for a low in-lb screwdriver on any DA jobs.
Yeah I mostly got that for bike stuff and to satisfy my OCD
so don't buy bad cars where they put that shit in insane spots
That’s impossible in 2022. Also I work on shit for other people and I’m not going to tell them to drive trash heap 80s Toyotas (or ride the bus like yourself), which is why I’m not on the poorgay cope shit of “but you’re not a purist unless you take forever with hand tools”’
Shitty torque wrench that had a wider range than -4%+. Always zero it out and always put it in back in the holder. If you drop it you have to get it calibrated.
Honestly for small shit get a beam torque wrench.
Haha
I know the feeling. Did that on my motorcycle and had to drill and extract it like a surgeon. Luckily I could reform the first few threads from the other side of the rocker carrier and throw a new bolt in, but the feeling of despair when you snap it is hard to describe.
been tightening shit by feel for years and things never really go wrong
why dont you all just use a monkey wrench and some 10mm and 12mm wrenches? what more do you need
OP is a shitter who is too cheap for a $40 torque wrench
Perhaps my autism will benefit someone. Made this chart a couple years ago to help me cover the full range with the least $$$. The four green ones are the ones I settled on. Titan is Princess Auto's house brand. Prices are in pre-covid CAD with several on sale so you probably won't find these prices anymore. But this gives you an idea of the relative cost.
I have the time to torque stuff.
Wrenching is my zen time.
If I need the impact I bust out the brushed 1/2in milwaukee and it does enough so far.
Yes. A good quality torque wrench does click when bolts are enough tight, I have been using torque wrench with my cars for 7 years now. Impact wrenches can easily over tighten the bolts causing the bolt- or in some cases break the mount hole of rim making the whole bolt go straight through rim, causing bolt not hold the rim at all.
I put my harmonic balancer bolt in with an air impact. That’s a risky game my friends
>harmonic balancer bolt in with an air impact.
I guess you mean torque stick, that's surely one way to avoid over tightening bolts. But those torque sticks can sometimes snap to two pieces then you have to buy a new torque stick.
Always torque till yield then half a turn back.
>I've only ever watched YouTube mechanics
Every nut and bolt needs to be torqued precisely to spec. If that oil drain plug is not torqued to precisely 27 newton meters your mom's breasts will fall off. Engineers are the smartest people alive. I fricking love science.
>I frick
frick engiBlack folk bru, ugga dugga
I don't bother torquing anything other than head bolts and even then I'm sure it'd be fine if I slammed heads on with an impact.
>when your tiny torque wrench yields, not clicks, when at spec
Frick these things. It's important to fricking KNOW when I'm at spec because these tiny fasteners will strip easier but no,let's just design the wrench to slightly tilt when your at torque. Not click like everything else.
I just twist them in with a spanner idk what anyone here is talking about
Except when your car uses yield bolts and you start snapping them left and right bc you’re over torquing them
I'm a mechanic and I've never used a torque wrench. If it looks like it needs to be tight, you tighten it tight as frick. If it's a delicate part you snug it up with a 1/4inch rachet. It's not rocket science
Oh ya you're one of the morons We've been talking about
>Taking your car to a mechanic
>Everything is greasy and stained
>Create 3 new problems for every 1 problem fixed
Help me out br/o/s...
If I have a 1ft torque wrench set to 50 ft-lbs, and then put an extra 1ft extension on it, will that make it click at 100 ft-lbs?
The answers lie here for anyone genuinely interested.
https://www.robins.af.mil/Portals/59/documents/technicalorders/32B14-3-1-101.pdf
no, your hand will be applying 25lbs of force but the head will still only apply 50lb/ft before clicking.
there's some formula you can use to calculate how much torque will actually be delivered depending on the length. Some awkward bolts you can simply use a crowfoot extension rotated 90 degrees to the wrench and that won't affect the final torque applied.
for me its the click that is the sound of the job being done.
Rookie
these things are the shit, used one when I rebuilt a 992 final drive once
I used them on submarines (Shipbuilder) never had any problems.. The ones we used were by Ram-Pac.
one time i waa behind a guy whose wheel came totally off
pulled over to check on him, looked at the hub and lugs had all sheared right off
im 90% sure his lug nuts had been unga dungad so fierce they compromised the lugs and caused the failure