How bad is it boyos? It's not meant to last forever, I don't hoon it that hard either, but man each time she goes up on the lift it's so jarring.
Is this even worth restoring one day? It's an AWD Suzuki Aerio, it would make a fun offroader one day, but I'm afraid it would crack in half.
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It's just surface rust. Seems fine to me.
She drives good, and my dad says it's not that bad too, but this just looks so.. fricked. When can you tell something goes from surface rust to being a bigger problem? I got whole pieces getting flakey. I've gone on some nice trips with this thing so I kind of want to keep it forever, it was meant to just be a disposable car for winters, but now I like it a lot.
>When can you tell something goes from surface rust to being a bigger problem?
When it has a swiss cheese appearance
if the thickest metal is flaking like that, imagine the rot on the thin unibody panels. I've been trying to stop the rust like yours for years but no aerosol rust paint can survive the road salt.
do a in depth inspection and see if the firewall or something is decaying.
Yours looks immaculate compared to mine. My car had like 5 or 6 owners before me and I live in Montreal. This thing has never heard of care.
I've seen people restore completely rotted chassis sitting out in a field, the day I got the space and tools I want to hit up a junk yard and find parts to replace most of this rusted crap (if the parts I find isn't too rusted itself).
Fricking salt man.
that was one just a little probing for weakness. here's the underside of my driver rear pinch weld and jack point, looking towards the rear.
forgot image frick
1/2
2/2
this is the view is from above the same D/R pinch weld, looking through the hole that's not supposed to be there. the hook is poking through the holes seen from below in
Lol that's far beyond surface rust. Once metal's flaking and coming off you've got cancer. That shit isn't stopping unless gone to bare metal and treated with a rust converter but once it's flaked it's compromised on a car, period.
Sand the rust down and treat the metal.
Lol.
There's no metal in that picture, only iron oxide is left.
If you look in the upper left corner area you'll see a pinch welded joint made up of three layers and the rust is bubbling up and distorting the metal. That's serious rust that's difficult enough to repair that most don't bother and just let the vehicle go to shit. Fixing rust like that usually isn't worth it unless the vehicle would be worth well over 6 figures when you got done. A truism about rust is it's always three times worse than what you see.
This one too. The hook is pointing at a pinch weld and you can see the metal is bubbled up and distorted meaning rust is in there too.
Now, if the vehicle were protected from the elements and only came out on nice days it could last many years more if not decades before any of this was a big enough problem to need to stop driving it. Continuing to drive it in wet weather and salted roads will shorten it's remaining life considerably
if you care about it then assemble another subframe off to the side so when something goes you can just replace all of it at once and have a fresh start
I really, really like this idea. Piece together shit from a junkyard.. this might work.
suppose so e did take all this down to the metal, what do you use then, por15? oil enamel brush on paint? red oxide? i dont care about looks
Take it down to metal, well in where metal is needed or replace removable parts, spray everything that doesn't need balancing or rotates with bedliner.
*weld in where metal is needed, holy phone fricks
did this exact thing on my 300zx front suspension. use high temp engine enamel for parts encountering high temps, and automotive enamel for everything else.
my process was to take a rotating wire wheel / dremel to remove the top layer of rust and pitting etc, then paint as instructed with the high temp paint. I used this for my front control arms / other metal hardware once it was totally stripped and the surface rust was removed.
https://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-roll-bar-chassis-paint
if you really care, wire wheel the sheet metal floor pan in sections like 2x2ft and throw some primer then paint over it.
Just get in there with a wire wheel and some spray paint, Nancy
so fricking glad I don't live in a state where your taxes directly pay for the destruction of your car
Get a few cans of rustoleum and spray it all. It won't fix it but you won't see it as much. Win Win.
remove as much surface rust as possible first though. get the most out of your work by doing both.
True, might as well wirebrush what you can while you can.
If the car is really bad though, it might just be better to just paint it since you don't want to know how bad it really is.
ehh, better to know. if its genuinely unsafe to drive in or (inshallah) not as bad as it looks, either way id rather know than not know, especially if people i give a shit about are in it with me on the road.
Is this genuinely unsafe? In two weeks I am going to go for a 10 hour drive (and then back home a week later). On top of that I drive to and from work as well. I guess it's tough to tell from the photos, but how long until this thing is true and well a deathtrap (if it isn't already)? Because I don't have enough cash saved up to buy a "new" car tomorrow yet. In maybe a month or two sure.
Because if the suspension/drivetrain look like this, then I guess the frame and thus safety is compromised as well.
>Is this genuinely unsafe?
Nah, not yet. In a few years of wet weather driving perhaps but for now it's more a matter of pointing out that there's damage in process that you can't really stop and isn't easily fixed.
Spray paint it black and flip it
Just knock off all that unneeded weight with a needle scaler, tape over the holes, spray with black woolwax, good as new.
ahh the tell tale signs of living in the rust belt.
I live in Canada (Montreal). The salt on the roads destroys cars. This one is a 2004. Some fare better than others. Mine didn't.
My theory on rust is this: At the end of the day, the subframe/suspension/brakes/axles/etc can all be bolted off and replaced if it's rotten and shitty. That said, as gross as the rust looks on the suspension none of it is dangerous unless those arms are hollow and possibly rotting inside out.
What's worrying to me anon is the rust visible on the rear floor pan/pinch weld right about where fuel tanks are - that looks very bad and I bet you you will find a hole if you try poking through it. The rest of the floor looks to be in good shape.
You know it's too bad when it breaks, then you replace the part that broke and keep driving. Living in a poor rust belt state with no inspections, 75% of the cars on the road are worse than yours.
she's peachy OP.
It's not great but not as bad as you think either. That brake line looks fricking horrendous though. It wouldn't be a bad idea to put brake lines on it. Inspect the fuel lines and the gas tank straps