I'm in the market for my first project car. I love the two seater roadsters and started looking into the z3s as I felt the Miatas were a bit overpriced and done to death. Two good deals have popped up near me recently though, each for roughly 7 grand. I have the choice between a 6 cylinder 2.5 liter z3 with 90k miles or a nb2 Miata with 110k miles. Which should I choose? I am in the US and have never worked on a car before, but I'd like to learn. Thanks.
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$7000 buys you a NC1, do that instead it's a lot better car
That car is bloated to shit dude. No thanks.
Much of what you’ve heard regarding the third-generation car is exaggerated; some of it is just plain wrong. Start with the comments about weight and size. Guess what? The NB Miata was 155.7 inches long, with later examples scaling at around 2375 pounds. A 2006 NC MX-5? Just 157.3 inches long and 2425 pounds. Not that big of a difference, right? Then consider the fact that the NC has a significant advantage in power. We’re talking 167hp against 142hp, with significantly more torque “beneath the curve.”
https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a23490210/nc-miata-buyers-guide/
Shhhh let the morons hate on the NC. Don't give it away.
Plus IIRC it's a Duratec based engine which means it's insanely stout and has a nice aftermarket.
>Ford
post your idea of a good 4 cylinder engine that can be made cheaply, reliably, and in large quantities
BP05/BP4W/BPZ3
Those are awful compared to the Duratec though, their heads can't flow for shit which is why bolt ons for them maybe give you 15whp over stock
NC is a boat amirite guise xD
not compared to a Z3
I prefer the looks of the nb2 quite frankly. I think it's actually the best looking Miata Mazda ever made. Besides, there aren't any clean ncs in my area anyway.
NB is very pretty. That's a good reason to own one. I have an NC.
Inline six cylinder is something special but MX5 is reliable and a lot lighter. I chose MX5, but both are cool.
reliability isn’t objective anymore when it comes to older cars from the 90’s. it depends entirely on the previous owner. yes, the miata can take more abuse but it can only be neglected so much before the motor goes kaboom.
Your logic is sort of backwards there. A bad owner can make a reliable car unreliable, absolutely 100% true even for 1 year old cars. A good owner can make an unreliable car reliable, no not possible. For example the rear subframe failure on the Z3's. Either it's been fixed or not, simply doing oil changes on time doesn't fix your subframe cracking lol.
>A good owner can make an unreliable car reliable, no not possible.
wrenchlet, NPC
weirdo wrenching enthusiast detected, op wants to drive his car not go through project car hell where he pretends to be a BMW master technician
not sure if I would take one over a older C4 Corvette or a Miata, they really weren't known for being fun to drive. More of a cruise
01-05 mr2 is a contender if you find one
>there are no design flaws or mechanical weak points in automobiles
Post tool box you fricking moron you've never worked on a car in your life.
Honestly it's just that $7000 is a tough pill to swallow for a car that's a 1990 1.6 NA underneath. I never understood why NB2s cost so damn much. The sheet metal on them is awful too, I see more rusty NBs than I do NAs.
NCs look a lot better with wheels and a lip, or NC2-3 bumpers.
Only other car I can recommend in that budget is a 1989+ C4 6spd. It won't be as reliable as the Miata due to being mechanically more sophisticated and 30-35 years old but it'll be fun. There's another thread up about them. It definitely won't be as fast as a new car but it's hard to have a nice day in a 245hp/3200lb L98 88-91 C4. Just expensive tire fitments though.
Yeah but Miatas take abuse because it has the engine out of a economy car and at least the newer ones (NC/ND) have Mazda stress test them for motorsports use.
I own an NB1 and an E36 (z3 is based on e36).
If you're not very experienced in working on cars, the Miata is far more forgiving, the z3 might drive you nuts.
I would try to drive both if you can, I have a feeling they are not as similar as you'd think.
Probably won't go wrong with either, but you really can't go wrong with the Miata.
Get a Chrysler Crossfire SRT-6
Dark horse contender, Mercedes SLK class. R170 comes with manual variants and a very reliable V6. You can go supercharged V6 if you want. This was the direct competitor with the BMW Z3.
R170 is a based choice. Definitely go V6 instead of the supercharged 4.
kys insect
Recently I bought an NB2 for 10k (low mileage and all the good stuff on it)
Is it undepowered, noisy, does it have some minor problems here and there? Hell yes!
Do I regret this? Frick no!
Do I daily drive it? Frick yes!
Would I recommend it to someone else? Probably not
It's a car that only a few people LOVE and most don't understand why
I want to say that you should try both but a short test drive won't tell you too much.
>started looking into the z3s
no point, mcdonalds on all 4, rear subframe cracks since its made of the mexican steel.
Wait bro are you a wrenchlet? Why don't you just put your $7000 car up on your lift in your garage and replace the subframe? It's really easy anyone can do it in their garage with a lift.
the subframe doesn't crack, the chassis cracks at the subframe mounts.
people keep parroting subframe subframe without actually understanding what the issue entails.
Bro I understand the issue perfectly, I just put my $7000 shitbox up on my lift in my garage and look at it. I do this with all of my cars. I have ten lifts in my garage at my second home, like most zoomers.
>without actually understanding what the issue entails.
why even bother. Isn't the whole wiring harness biodegradable LAMO. It's made to rent, keeping these clappers on the road is a fools errand.
volvo used vegan harnesses in the 80s
and mercedes used vegan harnesses in the 90s
bmw never did
>bmw never did
aha, I guess BMW is better quality. Either way I could never be seen in any European car since they target Africans and women.
Yes I'm an african woman with a penis, turqoise hair and fake nails the target market for small rear wheel drive cars
Especially in 90s south Germany
it's a rental though, no point. It's like trying to reuse tissue paper by washing it. Kys btw and frick automatics.
Sorry ranjesh I'm not going to buy an EV. I'm just not!
the answer is s2000 but it's out of your budget.
if you drive all three you won't ever enjoy the miata or z3 as much again. the way you sit in the s2k, its gauges, it's shifter, the way the engine gradually gains power all the way to 9k rpm, the chassis and handling are superior, etc. You'll forever be ruined if you ever drive an s2k fast.
Yeah but the problem is for the money you spend on a clean AP1 ($14-25k) you can put half on a GR86/ND2 downpayment and finance the rest with very low payments. And it'll be a car that'll give you zero problems for at least 4-5 years.
Like even used it's 5 year old BRZ/86 vs 15-20 year old S2000 with often rebuilt titles or 150k+ miles.
I would rather have a f20c than that little boxer engine any day of the week. I got my ap1 for 11.5k (clean title) and while it's not perfect it's in very good overall shape. Do the basic maintenance and I'd honestly put more faith in the f20c despite it's age. Not shitting on any of the cars tbh. If you got any of them and never drove the s2k you would be blissfully ignorant. BUT if you do drive an ap1 all out you'll be pissed you compromised or you'll cope to infinity that your platform is better (it's not).
Strong possibility the s2k follows the nsx and supra in pricing. There's less than 100k in the NA market sold. Probably half are dead or clapped. It's gonna skyrocket more than likely and worse case it'll not lose any value.
Yeah, but you bought low. OP won't have that luxury. It won't hurt to look anyways for a deal but 5 mins on Facebook Marketplace has me choosing between a 100k mile 2004 S2000 for $25k and a 58k mile 2019 BRZ with Brembo package for $23k at a dealer. And the latter is likely to be able to be financed.
Give the BRZ a nice exhaust, intake, header and tune and it'll feel better.
I'm fortunate to have a metro area an hour or two away that often has cars for lower than average prices. Often these dealers are by volume and if you offer them cash they'll do side deal for ya. Car was missing a few rear bits of trunk trim and has high mile chassis but engine and driveline is low miles and chassis is rust free with bc racing coilovers already on it. Had a CEL because the dealer deleted the secondary air pump improperly. Fixed the delete and car runs smoother and no more CEL. Fenders were a little fricked up paint isn't 100% Obviously you make compromises but I couldn't settle for the other cars. Just be fully aware of your options and whatever platform you chose and you'll be fine. So many people drop 20k or sign for a car and don't know shit about them. Can't fix shit on them. Absolutely stupid imo.
>clean AP1 ($14-25k)
More like $25-35k.
(you)
Consider a 2.5L 986 Boxster.
>maccas on all 4
>imf
>Lol engine
>lol interior
>trash gearing
>trash pedal placement
JUNK
There's something about the Z3 that never seemed right with me. Like there's a good looking car somewhere underneath but it's ruined by ill fitting BMW corporate design details.
Or get an Audi TT. Small roadster, optional manual, and AWD.
ah i see you're a gentleman of class