Trying to drift my NB
I would like a welded diff but I'm having a hard time finding someone to do it for me.
Everyone has a "buddy" that has done them before and would love to weld it for me but it never seems to pan out.
I've asked the shop I normally get work done at and they just kinda laughed which I anticipated.
People have suggested prebuilt diffs but I can't seem to find them for sale anywhere.
What are my options? Are there shops out there that would be open to this kind of thing or are they all going to shirk at the thought?
Thanks
It's All Fucked Shirt $22.14 |
It's All Fucked Shirt $22.14 |
You have to be prepared to pay for this with no warranty. If you tell these guys you're good with that, they'll probably do it.
I'll drop that on them next time. Any idea how much they should be asking for something like that? Does anyone know about prebuilt stuff? Is there a place that sells them?
>I'll drop that on them next time. Any idea how much they should be asking for something like that?
I don't. You're asking someone to put their reputation on the line while you engage in frickery. Nobody wants to risk that is there's a chance you go talking shit if it didn't hold up throughout your frickery. High dollar guys might, but newer guys don't want your trash talking if you frick someone up. If you're about this life, be prepared to spend some money and not give people bad names for helping you out.
Just typing "I don't" would have saved some wear and tear on your keyboard.
Aren't I one "more" miata driving homosexual? I don't understand how adding me to the mix means one less.
I know the risks of welding the diff.
I bought the car, I'll do what I want to it.
I'm gonna put a big moronic widebody kit on it swap the engine and stance the frick out of it just to piss people like you off.
Seriously guys, I know it's DA but try to contain your autism.
least homosexual miata owner
Just buy a $500 china welder. Every man should have one anyways.
I'm not disagreeing with ya but not super feasible at the moment. It's my daily so I can't really afford to have it down for more than a day or two which is why I'd like to have a shop do it for me.
>daily with a welded diff.
One less miata driving homosexual on the streets
Don't daily a welded differential you idiot. You will shatter the diff or half axles or ruin your tires or all 3
Get a real drift car Miatas are too light to drift, they actually fricking turn
Listen to this guy.
I locked the diff on my daily when I was young and dumb and immediately regretted it. You completely sacrifice low speed drivability/manoeuvrability just to peel fat skids on the rare occasion.
Honestly, that's kinda why I was interested in these "prebuilt" diffs that everyone swears are out there.
If I don't like it or don't find it worth it I can always just swap it back.
Did the NB come from factory with an LSD? I have seen pro level drivers with nothing more than a shimmed diff. Otherwise you could install a mini spool; it essentially locks the diff but it’s reversible if you don’t like it.
Honestly, I was just trying to look that up myself. Any idea what the easiest way to check would be?
I'm gonna do some research on torsen and shimmed diffs.
I'm not really familiar with either term.
Is there a clear winner between the two?
I'm honestly planning on keeping the car pretty stock apart from this.
Torsen was the factory LSD for the NB, it's a gentle diff with almost no negative impacts on daily driving but it's also sufficient to easily put the car into a powerslide with a stockish setup for engine and tyres.
If you had a big turbo and put semi slicks on it, you'd probably find a torsen opening up and spinning one wheel but anything less than that it should cope with.
I've got a torsen in one of my cars and it fricking sucks for doing skids. Very unpredictable and too grippy.
No you just suck at doing skids and you're probably going into it with no inertia and trying to rely solely on power
that or the car sucks
frick off Black person I never had a problem with clutch pack lsds.
Yeah and I've never had a problem drifting with open differentials
You have a 1.6 or a 1.8 Miata?
If it's a 1.8, you can get the clutch pack differential out of an RX-7 and swap it in.
In a nut shell, Torsen differentials limit the maximum possible differential rotation speed between the two rear wheels using fancy gears. If one tire loses traction, it'll be limited in how fast it can spin, and power will be forced into the other tire that still has traction.
With a clutch pack differential, the differential locks when there's enough torque coming into it through the driveshaft, so you can do your hektik skids or whatever with WOT, otherwise it stays open and acts like an open differential.
Okay so I did some research and I think I have the 2005 LS model because I have the Bose sound bar.
https://www.miata.net/faq/america/2005.html
If that's right I have the "Tochigi-Fuji torque-sensing limited-slip differential"
So am I just good to start then? Do I even need to worry about welding, shimming or anything else like that?
go to an empty carpark
roll along at first with almost no throttle
turn the steering wheel until you're doing tight circles
apply the accelerator vigorously and observer whether the car begins doing donuts, or if it simply starts spinning one wheel with the speed of a thousand leaping gazelles
Hella, assuming I do in fact do donuts, do I need to even worry about welding or shimming or anything like that or should I just head to the track and start sending it?
If you do indeed have a torsen then it will suffice as it is, they don't really need rebuilding or shimming - if the diff is still working then the torsen is probably ok.
You can try this test and see if both wheels turn. I’m not too familiar with Mazdas but 90s Nissans used viscous LSD from factory which was fine for circuit style driving but not really drifting. If you want to actually link corners and manjee down the straight you need something more aggressive.
No this test will NOT work with a torsen, because a TORque SENsing diff only limits the slip when it SENses TORque.
If you jack it up in the air with no drive torque then it will act as an open diff.
Nvm I just read the first and only comment on the video and it says this test doesn’t work for the “tofu Fuji” type diff
>Miatas are too light to drift, they actually fricking turn
Yes Miatas are shit for drifting but it has nothing to do with weight - the NB weighs up around the 1 metric tonne mark which is heavier than many successful drift platforms.
In my experience the problems with drifting the Miata is that the wheelbase is too short and that it never shifts the load to the rear wheels properly while it's in a slide (probably due to the inboard weight distribution).
With the good cars I've drifted when you put them into a slide they'll shift weight to the rear, settle at a nice angle and stay there. With my own experiences sliding an NB Miata and also watching other people's attempts - it seems to always be gaining or losing angle, it never really settles.
>it seems to always be gaining or losing angle, it never really settles.
heh, reminds me of that clip of a gt40 just trundling along around a curve then a miata just comes fricking flying in behind it and it wiggles side to side as its driver corrects the steering
Do not drift your daily. If you cannot afford to have it down for multiple days at a time, do not drift it. You will break things. It will happen, you are not immune. Nobody is. There is no level of drifting, from loading docks to FD, where damage to your car is unlikely. It is a simple fact of life at every level. Do not drift anything you can't afford to break, because it is inevitable that you will.
I understand the risks of it. It's obviously not optimal to have it break but I wouldn't be fricked.
I'm 99% sure I have the upgraded LSD since I've done donuts and dumb shit in a small capacity before without the "gazelle" issue.
I'm thinking I'm good to go then?
Thank you guys for your input, it's been really helpful.
just get a actual drift car with a limited slip diff
almost all cars that were sold in nordic countries came with a LSD as standard
you're best off buying a car that was sold in a nordic country and then importing a diff from any of the said countries
you should be able to figure out the gear ratios and other stuff
Just put a torsen in it homosexual, it'll work good enough if you're not running hardcore tyres - which you won't be doing with your flogged out old engine anyway.